Travels and tribulations...

Along the lazy White River...

2010-07-12T14:48:00.001-07:00

As we wrapped up our mid-summer visit to Muskegon, Jeff and I joined his father for an afternoon kayak down the White River. As we have in summers-past, we put in at the Happy Mohawk canoe livery...one of those classic old-school river-side rental spots with the politically incorrect logo and converted school bus to cart paddlers back and forth. Set forth in three sea-blue kayaks...the comfy wide-bottomed ones...perfect for a slow, winding river. This is a fun old river with low brush-covered banks and tall hardwoods (maples and oaks from my limited tree vocabulary) with long, heavy branches reaching out over the water to provide shade. The greenish-brown water is broken (frequently) by fallen trees and hidden sandbars... creating a leasurely obstacle course... one that we navigated with the occasional dip of a paddle or shrug of a shoulder. Unseen birds and breezes through the treetops formed our soundtrack. An otter slid past, dragging some long blades of grass. Dragonflies dotted with irridescent blue topped every sunny log. A light drizzle cooled us at the midway point. A pretty perfect way to see Western Michigan up close and personal.

Tuesday (Madrid to SFO)...

2010-06-09T17:17:00.001-07:00

A 12:45 flight meant we could sleep to a reasonable hour, grab a latte to go, and re-pack all of our treasures for the long trip home. Checked every nook in our lime-green room, walked down the dark purple hallway, and exited the red and silver lobby. A friendly but timid taxi driver rationed air conditioning and forward momentum like it was gold in her little Prius.

Madrid's Terminal 1 is unnotable. Functional and efficient (at least at our hour), but lacking any signs of style or comfort. But soon we were on board our Lufthansa flight to Frankfurt, watching as we banked over sun-drenched Madrid for one final glimpse.

Lufthansa crams a lot of service into even short intra-European flights. A beverage service and a warm meal (chicken and rice) are surprising touches for U.S. travelers used to flights with no free pretzels.

Frankfurt's airport surprised us with its efficiency...even more than usual. No additional U.S. security checks...odd. Certainly a pleasant change, but definitely makes it hard to predict how long it takes to get from gate to gate. A Dieter look-alike stepped out of SNL and walked by with slick, jet-black hair, a lean-yet-friendly German face, and (of course) a tight all-black outfit topped off with a high turtleneck. Apparrently HE hadn't been walking in southern Spain recently.

Our United flight home was uneventful and ahead of schedule. This time, our flight path took us over the northern edge of Iceland, for a cool view of the rocky island as we passed. Greenland. Canada. And then south over Washington and Oregon. Pleasant cool temperates greeted us...as did Chris and his speedy chariot.

Home again, home again, jiggety jig.

Monday (Madrid)...

2010-06-08T02:52:00.001-07:00

Awoke this morning with a feeling of wrapping up the loose ends. A final day of lathering up. A couple of must-see sights to visit. And leasurely wandering to say adios.

We passed through the Plaza Mayor to catch the main building in the square-enclosed plaza lit up with warm light. Not much activity on a workday morning, except for Fat Spiderman trolling for children. I think this Spiderman ate the one from El Retiro yesterday, because this one was enormous. His red and blue costume was soiled and stretched tight around a substantial gut. A red triangular bandana formed the lower half of his creepy mask. What child wouldn't want a balloon from this guy? (On this morning, the alternative was an equally scary clown...so it was really a coin toss for King Icky!)

On to the Cabildo Catedral Metropolitano de Madrid...the city's late 20th century cathedral adjacent to the Royal Palace. Completed in 1993, this is the latest cathedral constructed in Europe. Classic features like the stained glass windows, wooden ceilings, gilded high altar, and central dome all exhibit modern styles and colors blended with traditional iconography. The look is clean and powerful...not pretending to be old, but rather embracing its youth. The view from the exterior of the dome was panoramic...although the now-midday sun and still haze made the view less than photogenic. On the horizon, the Plaza de Toros stadium resembled the iconic saucer spaceship from Lost in Space.

Our main stop for the day...and our most anticipated sight in Madrid...was the Royal Palace. We purposefully left this for Monday, since all of the museums are closed today. The Palacio Real de Madrid is the working palace of the Spanish monarchy...although the King and Queen reside elsewhere in town. This 18th century structure of over 2000 rooms was completed during the rein of Carlos III...and many of the rooms are decorated in his style. Our tour consisted of a couple dozen state rooms...all ornately decorated. Most of the rooms had elaborate ceilings of varying styles and materials. A favorite was the Chinoserie style room used as a formal dressing room for the awakening cermony of Carlos III...and to think I just get dressed unceremoniously. A beautiful painting adorning one of the large rooms depicted a colorful scene with Columbus returning to the court of Isabel and Ferdinand from the New World. The palace was probably the best possible way to finish up our trip. The visit certainly left you with a reminder that Spain has a rich and powerful history in spite of its current economic place in the world.

Spent the late afternoon people watching and recalling highlights from our trip. Strolled down the crowded Grand Via...ducking occasionally down a side street for a more intimate walk. Cervezas on the Plaza de Chueca...love the olive oil chips that accompany drinks. Laughed reviewing photos of Fat Spiderman. Scouted out our last meal in Spain...for now. The pleasant breeze and entertaining scene won us over, and we dined once more outside...yummy pizzas and cervezas from Pizzete. As the town closed up after midnight, we traced a circuitous route back to the hotel taking a few final photos.

Sunday (Madrid)...

2010-06-06T15:52:00.001-07:00

A late Saturday night deserved a late(er) Sunday morning. Still, we certainly started before the majority of people in this town. A latte and a pastry to go...nibbled them in the dappled light of a park along Paseo del Prado.

Spent a few hours touring the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza...another popular art museum...this one with a broader, less Spanish-focused collection. In addition, the Thyssen includes "modern masters", versus the more traditional masters in the Prado. So, this means we saw a fairly chronological collection that started in the 13th and 14th century with religious triptychs...and progressed steadily through all the major painting eras. El Greco and his famous "Annunciation" was a standout (again) for us. Seemed like all the big names were in the house... Rembrandt. Van Dyke. Rubens. Monet. Degas. Modern art stars included Picasso and Dali mixing company with Hopper, Pollock and O'Keefe. Oh, and a nice Rothco for Sherie :). Unfortunately, most of the Monets were out on loan...to Paris...don't they have enough Monets in Paris? For me, I got a kick out of seeing late 19th century landscapes of the Blue Ridge Mountains and Yosemite alongside traditional scenes from Europe.

Leaving the Thyssen, we strolled to the end of Paseo del Prado and entered the lower-left corner of Parque del el Retiro, Madrid's main park. As you might expect, El Retiro was the perfect place to join the city residents for a leisurely Sunday in the park. The temperature dropped noticeably. The breeze smelled fresh...almost moist. Sunbathers followed dots of sun under dense green canopies. Row boats dodged each other on the wide pool at Monumento Alfonso XII. A chubby Spiderman twisted balloons for kids. Shutterbugs posed for photos with people posing as bronze statues, Spongebob Squarepants, and Ghandi. We wandered past the Palacio de Velazques and Palacio de Cristal. An expansive book fair drew crowds as we exited the park.

Returned to the hotel and had a late afternoon drink on the rooftop terrace...Splash@Oscar. Certainly an in-place to be. The warm waning sun, rooftops dotted with statues, and an entertaining (um...silly?) crowd made the over-priced mojitos worth it.

We had been trying for three nights to get into the popular Mercado de la Reina on the Gran Via. Sunday is clearly a slow night and our patience was rewarded. Definitely worth the visit. Our goat cheese and chorizo scrambled eggs were a creamy delight to start (paired with some yummy Machego of course). And the "stewed pork" was a decadent slow-cooked dish with a rich sauce...amazing. A warm apple tart and ice cream for dessert. Highly recommended. We walked off dinner through nearly deserted streets that were packed the night before. We think the city is repenting the sins of the all-night weekend.

Saturday (Madrid)...

2010-06-06T12:24:00.001-07:00

Even by 10am on a weekend, Madrid feels sleepy. This is a much more pleasant way to experience the city. The lighting is softer (yet still quite intense) and there are fewer people to contend with. Grabbed a couple of lattes and we were soon strolling down the tree-lined Paseo del Prado towards...yep you guessed it...the Prado museum.

With its strict no-photo policy, the Prado is a great place to escape being a tourist. There is no pressure to capture that "one shot" that details the visit...and equally as important, there aren't a dozen other tourists jostling you for that same shot.

The Prado is one of the great European museums with paintings from great masters and statues from ancient times. Its all a bit overwhelming, but with a trusty map and lots of English signs, we plunged in. As you would expect, the heart of the collection focuses on Spanish masters...Goya and Valazquez dominate, but El Greco's one room made the biggest impression. His distinctive style stands out amongst rooms full of his contemporaries. We felt fortunate to have seen so many other Grecos in Toledo, where he painted his masterpieces. Beyond the Spaniards, there was fair representation of Rubens and Rembrant and similiar old masters.

We quickly took in the adjacent Royal Botanical Gardens. Less of a park and more of a plant museum. An extensive collection of varieties. Not a lot in bloom this time of year, expect some just-past roses and some lovely purple something-or-others (ok...Jeff tells me they are Alliums...clearly his memory is better than mine :) Still, the cool foliage broke up an otherwise hot afternoon.

Returned to the hotel via a circuitous route under lengthening shadows. A couple of much-needed cervezas on Plaza de Chuega. And then off to dinner at Kiyo...a surprising Spanish-Itanian fusion spot. Wonderful patas bravas and a luscious goat cheese salad to start. A savory (and hint of sweet) ravioli. And a rich chocolate-drizzled crepe for dessert. Drinks and music at Liquid until almost 3.
Bed!

Friday (Arcos to Madrid)...

2010-06-04T22:30:00.000-07:00

A hazy morning greeted us, but pleasant breezes kept away the mugginess. Loaded up the Leon, squeezed out of the Plaza, and left Arcos for greener pastures. Curvy country roads became regional roads and finally a big autovia to whisk us to Sevilla.

We made great time, and decided to take a short drive to charming Carmona less than 30 minutes outside Sevilla. (Jeff had learned of this "must see" town from his neighbor on the plane.) We didn't have time to take in the town, but we walked around the main plaza and snapped pictures of churches decorated with blue ceramics. Colorful banners hung across the streets in advance of Corpus Cristi. A town to return and absorb on out next visit.

Emily guided us back to Sevilla, and into the Santa Justa train station. I will give Emily credit...she butchered pronunciations and was unaware of some recent road construction, but in the end she always got us where we needed to be...muchas gracias, Emily! The Avis return was confusing, but a friendly woman patiently guided us...adios, Leon!
For our AVE train to Madrid, we decided to upgrade to get a more peaceful three-hour ride. Certainly worth it for this leg. A quiet coach. Facing window seats to ourselves. As we left the station, we were served a sherry from Jerez...which wasn't our favorite...but something we had to sample. A simple lunch was included with fruit, salad, and a hot pasta. And afterwards, they brought around small glasses of Gecko caramel liquor...perfect for dessert! With no intermediate stops, we arrived faster than we expected. A smooth ride in peace.

Arrived at the Madrid Atocha station (again)...grabbed an easy cab...and we were suddenly plopped in the middle of bustling Madrid. A simple lime-green room at the hip Oscar RoomMate hotel.

Spent the afternoon trying to get acquainted with our new surroundings. Cities are the hardest to appreciate at first glance. Sun beating on us. Cars barrelling down every street and alley...and even in the pedestrian plazas. At first, its all just harsh and irritating. But as we crossed a few landmark plazas (Plaza del Sol and Plaza Mayor), grabbed a sweet nutty treat at a foodie market, and entered the gardens behind the Royal Palace...we began to appreciate the surroundings. The gardens (Jardines del Campo del Moro) were cool and refreshing, and the Palacio Real loomed overhead brightly lit by the late sun. The Jardines de Sabatini provided another "well lit" view of the palace.

Dinner at Umami on the Gran Via. (We can't tell is this is related to the Umami in LA...someone will have to verify.) In any case, our meal was a nice change from trasitional tapas. Our two shared burgers were inventive and flavorful. Two rice dishes were delightful with Asian flavors. And everything is more awesome with mojitios. Drinks at trendy Liquid.

Thursday (Arcos and the South Coast)...

2010-06-04T21:30:00.000-07:00

Awoke to a cool, breezy morning for a long driving day along a grand loop to the southern coast. Exiting the Plaza Cabildo was a tight sqeeze. Pastries in nearby Medina-Sidonia on its town square. South to the coastal town of Vejer de la Frontera... yet-another hilltown with a harrowing climb to the top.

Hooray...the Altantic Ocean!

Visited the expansive archeological complex at Balio Claudia...the ancient Roman city that is being uncovered and reclaimed from sand, earth, and time. Ruins from the time around 1 B.C. Roman wall and gates. An ampitheatre. The ancient forum. Foundations of temples. And buildings along the shore for salt-curing fish.

Continued on through the beach-town of Tarifa at the southern-most tip of Spain, Got our glimpses of Africa. (Tarifa is one of the main points to catch a ferry to Morocco...not this trip.) Leaving Tarifa, a road-side mirador provided a better view of Africa...so close across the Staights of Gilbraltar. Grabbed a sandwich with an African vista.

Through the busy, hectic port city of Algeciras. Got our first (and fleeting) glimpses of Gibraltar. Again...something for another trip. Hooray...a glimpse of the Mediterranean.

Time for the second half of our circle-route back to Arcos. Hit another white hilltown...Jimena de la Frontera. Plotted a course back...only discover a road closed. Ugh! The new, less-certain route was an hour longer. Up and over the mountain...through the national park (again)...this time up a rough park road. Up and up and up. Faith that the route would not be blocked along the way. The occasional biker or runner gave confidence that something was on the other side. Yay!...cozy Ubrique and a smoother (and wider) drive on to El Bosque and Arcos. Whew! :)

After a long drive, nothing better than cervezas! Meson Don Fernando for more tapas...patatas bravas, croquetas de espinicha, brocheta de solomillo. Muy excelente! And a delcious tarta de limon for dessert. An excellent way to end an excellent day full of firsts. A quiet evening before tomorrow...back to the big city...Madrid.

Wednesday (Ronda to Arcos)...

2010-06-04T19:31:00.001-07:00

Dropped down from our hilltop perch in Ronda as the warm morning sun woke up the fields before us. Entered the rocky mountains of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. The craggy limestone, low vegetation hills, fields of purple wildfowers, and short stubby trees were all so reminiscent of the California Sierra Nevadas. Winding narrow roads with very few cars. Sleepy towns...some merely a roundabout. A tiny, dusty bullring along the road.

Along the route of the Pueblos Blancos...the white hilltowns...arrived in Zahara de la Sierra...with the tower-ruins of its Moorish castle watching from above. The hot sun surprised us as we climbed to the tower along a dusty footpath flanked with short olive trees and dense bunches of cactus. The tower provided a welcomed break from the heat...cool and moist...narrow windows channeling strong breezes. On top...a 360 degree view of the world...the white buildings of Zahara, its belltower-topped church, the enormous man-made reservoir, and the the rolling expanse of the Sierra de Grazalema park.

Leaving Zahara, we wound further up into the mountains. Dozens of switchbacks...each one seemingly the last. Short oak trees. Steep cliffs. More limestone outcroppings. Stopped for the view as we crossed the pass...the Puerto de las Palomas (1357 meters). On the other side of the pass, Grazalema... another hilltown of white buildings spilling down the hillside. On through the park...until we were stopped by dozens of goats crossing through a break in the fence. Making a beeline for a fresh picnic area, they were soon sitting on soccer fields, standing on tables, and lounging on a terrace like it was built just for them. Two goats paused for some goat lovin'.

Arrived in our hilltown for evening...Arcos de la Frontera...at one time on the frontier, now simply a pitstop in the midst of the agricutural interior of southern Spain. Once again entrusting Emily with our fates, we traced a winding path up into the old town, through narrow streets and blind curves...sometimes with mere inches on either side....uphill...with a stick shift. But Emily was right, and we reached the Parador hotel in the main plaza...the Plaza Cabildo...atop the hill adjacent to the town's main church. Our room was worth the nerve-racking climb...a cliff-side balcony with a strong, refreshing breeze.

Tackled Arcos's two main churches: Santa Maria and St. Peter's. Both fine churches built after the reconquest in the 13th century. Lots of artifacts from the centuries, but we found more amusement reading the spotty translations on various interpretive signs.
By 9pm we were ready for an "early" dinner outdoors. Frenzied swallows above...occasionally diving down to street level. We sat entertained, nibbling on so-so tapas...improved by a few frosty cervezas. A slow stroll around the quiet old town eased us towards our beds.

Really Blogger...

2010-06-04T13:29:00.001-07:00

Its hurtfull when you lose my posts :(

Tuesday (Ronda)...

2010-06-03T01:36:00.003-07:00

I feel like a dottering old writer this morning, peering out from the balcony of our room, full of energy from a morning cappuccino, pouring through scribbled notes and half-written stories to assemble a few days worth of tardy blog entries. The view in front of me is both inspiring and distracting. Assembling snippets of stories from the past, when a swallow zips past me and brings me back to the present. Once the eyes follow the swifts to the gorge, the cliffs, and the green fields beyond...well, all hope is lost. Like a child that has spotted that one toy from across the room, the mind will not stop until it has played for a bit.

And so, with the long weekend still to tidy up, I'm fixated on Tuesday. Its still early enough that there isn't much traffic through town, except for the occasional Vespa or delivery truck rumbling over the cobblestone New Bridge. So instead, the gorge carries the gurgling of the Guadalevin River 350+ feet below. This low white noise is punctuated by the chirps of birds...mostly the curve-winged swallows, but I can see other shapes flying by or headed for unseen nests on the gorge walls. Mom and Dad would surely have better descriptions than "other shapes", by for me, this will suffice.

Beyond the gorge, the river enters a patchwork of fields and forested areas covering low rolling hills...grasses, rows of crops, olive trees. White houses dot the land. Something to research today: from the right and left, a narrow ridge with steep walls seems to encircle the land in front of us, almost as if it was an ancient caldera, forming a protected bowl. The wall is only broken where the river has carved its way through at the far side...the steep walls bow down to meet it. Or maybe its all an optical illusion. Time will tell.

Walked down from our hilltop to the lowest of three gorge-crossing bridges. The morning light was already hot, as we charted our course carefully from one shady nook to the next. At the bottom, the original entry to the city and the site of an old Moorish defense. Nearby, the ruins of the town's baths, the Banos Arabes. It was customary for the baths in Moorish cities to be located just inside the walls so that outsiders could purify themselves. A fascinating film explained the simple-yet-ingenious system used to bring water up from the river, across a short aqueduct, and into the boiler room. Hot (steam), warm (massage and social), and cold (changing) rooms. For us, the partially buried brick sturcture provided a cool respite from the sun. Only the star-shaped holes in the domed ceilings provided subtle, soothing light...a far cry from the harsh lighting outdoors. Recovered Roman marble columns held up Moorish brick arches...symbolic, since the Moorish baths are adaptations of Roman baths. We felt transported back to simpler times.

A steep climb along sunny stairs from one city wall to the next. Old towers and narrow-ledged walls. Finally out of the heat again, and into the Iglesia Espiritu Santo, from the 15th century. Now we know why the Spanish and Italians REALLY loved their churches...these were sanctuaries in the spiritual AND physical sense! A simple interior with fine gold-leafed ornamentation. Choir music was piped through the sound system. We climbed the bell tower...looked up and saw bells inches from our heads. Time check...two minutes till the hour. Ummmm...do these still ring? Racing out, we were chased down the tower by deafening chimes. Yep...they still ring. (A tasteful warning would have been nice.)

More hot climbing along city walls and cliff edges. At the top had a cold beer at a shady bar in the Town Hall plaza. A guitarist played nearby...soothing Spanish tunes...and Pink Floyd? Yep...Wish You Were Here. How appropriate. Worth a euro in the blue-lined guitar case.

A quick break from the heat, a quick bite to eat, and off to Ronda's famous bullring. The oldest bullring in the world...built specifically for bullfighting in the late 18th century. Unlike the stadium feel of Sevilla's bullring, this one felt intimate. Wandered freely thru the two-tired stands. Out onto the dusty ring with fine dirt the color of saffron. The intricate system of tunnels and sliding doors guiding bulls from pen to battle. A museum of armaments and tack gear. Tourists posing as matador or bull (or town idiot) in the sun-soaked center.

One last stop for the day...the Casa del Rey Moro (the Moorish King's House)...but we didn't go in the house anyway. The gardens and a Moorish staircase down to the river are its attraction. The gardens provide a serene perch overlooking the gorge and hills beyond. A three-level Moorish-style fountain dominates. 'The Water Mine' is a series of stacked chambers and stairs carved down through the ciff to allow water to be carried up from the river from the 14th century. Cold and dark and wet. A long way down. Felt like the Mines of Moria :)

With a sun-beaten exhaustion, we spent a quiet evening.

Monday (Granada to Ronda)...

2010-06-03T01:36:00.001-07:00

We did a bit of morning shopping before departing Granada. Ornate boxes crafted by local woodworkers. An architectural volume from the Alhambra bookstore. And (finally) a small pomegranite momento to remind us of the symbol of Granada...we had made a game out of spotting the fruit on doors, in decorative tiles, and city infrastructure..

A swift return to the train station to Avis. Picked up our little red Seat Leon. Remembering manual transmission is like riding a bike. Navigated through the sleepy towns outside Granada and on through rolling fields. Snack and soda at a gas station where the two attendants (women) looked genuinely surprised to see us.

Emily (our GPS) did an admirable job directing us into Ronda...the white hilltown where we would spend the next two nights. With blind faith, we followed Emily's course up into the historic center...across an old bridge, up narrow cobblestone streets with steep grades and tight turns. Ronda is perched on a hilltop with a river cutting a narrow gorge through the middle. A picturesque bridge (the New Bridge) atop three stone arches spans the gorge. Our hotel sat along the cliff edge with a wonderful view of the bridge...not to mention the sweeping landscape below. Our room was aptly named Granada.

Walked the winding white-walled streets of Ronda's Moorish Quarter. The picturesque Colegiata Santa Maria la Mayor beckoned us in with its Moorish belltower. Learned that William Randolph Hearst fell in love with this belltower and replicated them at Hearst Castle at San Simeon (California)...now we know why it looks familiar. The church's most notable resident, the statue of Santa Maria was missing...she gets paraded through town early in May to her summer home in a cave on the edge of town...she knows how to stay cool in the summer!

Walked along the cliff top in the hot afternoon sun. Crossed the New Bridge and walked along the pedestrian way snaking above the cliff edge to take some late afternoon pictures. Watched the sun dip below the mountains directly to the west of us from the balcony in our room.

Dinner at El Sampillo as the dark blue sky turned pitch black. Wonderful food and our first sangria. Potatoes with peppers. A creamy Spanish omlette. Meatballs in a lovely sauce. Ice cream for dessert. And a friendly, persistent cat...who entertained us as she hid from passing dogs. Couldn't resist giving her a few nibbles of our food. Wandered the (very) quiet streets after dark. White walls and yellow trim glowed under street lamps. This is a cozy town that closes down early...if midnight is early.

Sunday (Granada)...

2010-06-02T17:10:00.001-07:00

We began today like every other day of this trip...with the ritualistic application of sunscreen. We can't match the warm olive complexion of the Spanish...but at least we don't resemble the lobster-red (or shrimp-pink?) northern Europeans here on vacation. Knock on wood!

Anticipating a hot day approaching 90 by the late afternoon, we planned a walk in the morning and the cold cathedral for later. Ducked quickly into the Museo Arcqueologico, with artifacts dating from pre-historic to Roman to Visigothic to Moors. Then a long walk along and above the Darro River into the Sacromonte district... famous for its cave homes and gypsy community. By noon, we needed a break... Los Faroles was the perfect hole in the wall (more like a cave in the wall) with a small terrace tucked into a white-washed corner overlooking the river and Alhambra beyond. Two cold Alhambra beers and a plate of spicy salami, cheese, and bread...all for 4€. The cheery owner had a wide, gentle smile that never left his face. Dressed in light gray pinstripe slacks, with a cream-colored shirt dotted with roses and a brown vest. He wore a neat brimmed hat (straw) with a black band. He gladly sold a similar hat to a bald customer with a full-sun seat...our picture-perfect perch was under a wide umbrella emblazoned with an Alhambra beer logo.

Plotted a return route that wound upward as the shadows grew narrower. Found a grand vista with panoramic views of the city wall, Alhambra and the snow capped mountains beyond. Re-entered the historic city thru the Puerta Nueva. Back into the Albayzin following winding routes to Plaza Nuevo near our hotel. Water and creamy ice cream to beat back the now-oppressive afternoon heat.

On to the cathedral...the second largest in Spain after Sevilla...check and check. It's becoming hard to describe these cathedrals and not use the same words: immense, ornate, enriching, breathtaking. Our path usually circles around the outer edges, taking in the many side chapels and naves, and other decorative things stuck in every nook. And then its time to dive right in...with enclosed choirs and towering high altars. The amazing things about cathedrals is that when you step back, they are amazing...and when you step forward, the tiniest detail tells a story. I may not understand the meaning of all of the Catholic imagery, but I am moved by the sheer artistry and inspiration.

Leaving the cathedral, we wandered through the local streets, taking in random sights...snapping random photos. Came upon another church, the Real Monestario de San Jeronimo...with a quiet cloister and santuary to explore. Only two other people in the church with us...which made the visit even more intimate and reflective.

We grabbed a late afternoon beer at Six Colors. Dinner was in a plaza near the catheral. Once again, we ate outdoors...as we had every night except for the one rain night. You can really connect with a city when you dine surrounded by it after dark.

Saturday (Granada)...

2010-06-02T13:54:00.001-07:00

A front passed through overnight, bringing a light rain and crisp morning temperatures. Nevertheless, bright sun and clear blue skies greeted us in the morning. Started the day with a pastry and a walk through some of the old city. Wandering the narrow shaded alleys of the Alcaiceria...the old Moorish silk market...it was easy to imagine shoppers following these same step centuries ago. Today, the tiny shops are crammed floor to ceiling with colorful trinkets...mostly with the feel of "tourist quality", but who knows, these could be artisan crafts from Morocco for all I know. Still, the colorful fabrics, varieties of leather, and dull-gray metal jewelry are a sight to see.

Entered the Royal Chapel, the burial place for Isabel and Ferdinand...the Catholic monarchs who united their kingdoms to create Spain...and most importantly for this visit, they retook Granada and the Alhambra...the last stand for the Moors on the Iberian Peninsula. The chapel is located off of the cathedral. It has an enormous high altar, but the Royal Chapel is dominated by the Italian marble tombs of Isabel and Ferdinand and their daughter and son-in-law Juana and Philip. (Philip was called Philip the Fair...how cool it that. I think I will use 'John the Fabulous' from now on and see if it sticks.) A narrow set of stairs take you just below the floor to peer at the simple lead coffins of the monarchs.

From the tomb of the conquering monarchs, we headed up to see their prize conquest...the mighty Alhambra...a sprawling complex perched high above Granada. The climb was steep-but-shaded. The temperature drop made the walk tolerable. While we awaited our alloted time to enter the ticketed portions of the complex, we toured Charles V's Palace...or at least the captivating interior...a two-level, circular courtyard with marble columns.

On to the main attraction...thr Palacios Nazaries...the Moorish palace. This the must-see Moorish sight in all of Spain. The rooms are covered with intricate stucco patterns, punctuated with pinpoint-windows of light. Water runs throughout the complex...you can imagine the water entering thru aqueducts above the city and flowing through many tiny diversions to feed fountains and pools and winding channels. Unfortunately, in the palace, many of the water features were dry...some for restoration and some (most likely) because there are just so many people. And this is where the wonder was lost. We had just come from Sevilla, where the lush Real Alacazar enchanted us...and the Alhambra just seemed crowded. Ah well...it was still beautiful...but perhaps next visit, we will do a nighttime tour...when most of the tourists are long gone. Till then...

A dusty walk through the imposing 13th-century Alcazaba fortifications at the tip of the Alhambra, and a hot walk up through the center of the complex...and we were feeling rather overwhelmed. What a wonderful surprise when we entered the Generalife...with its summer home, tiered gardens, and (most importantly) fountains. Water...water everwhere. Even a staircase with banisters of running water...awesome! THAT was what I wanted. :) As if to say "here is more water", as we were returning to the city along the Cuesta del Rey Chico a gush of water exited the walls of the Alhambra...done running through fountains...back into the Darro River.

We dined on a long plaza along the Darro under a vine-draped canopy. Tapas as we viewed the well-lit Alhambra against a pitch-black sky. Drinks and wonderful loungy music at the cozy El Rincon de San Pedro with the sound of rushing water over a fall just below.

Friday (Sevilla to Granada)...

2010-05-30T03:21:00.001-07:00

The alarm rang early...too early...but nothing a couple of lattes couldn't handle. Pleasant morning temperatures and a sweet light breeze made for a leasurely walk around the cathedral and along the outer Alcazar wall. Shopkeepers rolled out their displays of fans and flamenco dresses, postcards, and pottery. Picked up a small antique tile from the 1880s in a tiny shop outside the cathedral...used my (very) broken Spanish to communicate with the elderly shopkeeper.

The street in front of the hotel was closed for a bit. Preparations for a short civic celebration for the return of pilgrims to the cathedral. Apparently they rented 30,000€ per week houses along the way...not quite the "visit the flock and find God" kind of pilgrimage-of-old.

The train station was busier than we had seen so far. Something was up. Tourists were joined by news cameras and protesters (we think). Several trains were listed as cancelled, while others (including ours) were delayed. Still, we boarded without incident...two facing window seats for the 3 hour trip through Andalucia.

Graffitti once again quickly transitioned to rolling hills of olive trees...lots and lots and lots and LOTS of olive trees. (The local tap water must shimmer with olive oil.) This leg was on a medium distance train (versus the high-speed AVE lines), so stops were frequent in smaller towns with "real" people. Caught up (finally) on my blog. Spotting a corral of donkeys... awwww, with two frisky baby donkeys... ain't that a kick in the head (go Dean-o). A tiny, dusty soccer field... vacant in the hot afternoon sun. San Francisco de Loja pronounced with a soothing "fran-thithhhhh-co" Spanish Cindy Brady lisp. New houses with satellite dishes...old houses with cows.

Arrived at Granada's sleepy train station on a sleepy cul-de-sac with a hoard of travelers and nary a cab in site. A slow trickle of cabs cleared the group bit by bit...and somehow we were last :) nothing else was sleepy. We passed busy city streets until we hit the narrow cobblestone lane in front of our tiny, historic, Spanish-style hotel. Just five rooms in the hotel...each with a balcony overlooking a babbling stream and the next-door church. A slight head-tilt upwards reveals a bit of the Alhambra... high above... tempting us. Our room has a signature feature we've noticed in southern Spain...enclosed second-story half-balconies jutting out over the street... ours is done up in dark wood, black iron, and wavy windows. They open so you can peer at the sights all around. How cool.

From our home on the edge of the historic Albanzin...the old Moorish section of the city, with its twisting single-lane steets and steep walkways weaving up the hill. We visited a popular perch overlooking the old city and the Alhambra high above. From this vantage, the Moorish palace and fortress look truly massive...an imposing complex of stone building covering a craggy hill. Mountains in the distance still holding onto their snow. The flat plains of Andalucia lay to the right. The scene reminded us both of a scene from Lord of the Rings. A guitarrist played up-tempo tunes and drifters/hippies sold handmade metal and leather jewelry. We visited the overlook twice this aftenoon to find the right light. Truly breathtaking.

Ducked inside the Iglesia de Santa Ana across the street from the hotel. Cool and dark and quiet, the 17th century church had its very own Weeping Virgin...not everyone can take first place.

Decided to embrace the Moorish influences in the town and dine on a sweet and savory mixture of dishes. Chicken backed tender in a tajin with plums and nuts. Couscous with chicken and raisins and sweet onions. Creamy hummus. A yogurt-based desert topped with honey, nuts, and cinnamon. And Arabic coffee with heavy whipped cream. What a wonderful meal... unexpected and new.

Midnight by the time we finished dinner. Had an after-dinner Alhambra beer at Six Colors. Packed full of late-night locals. Lady GaGa and Madonna were paired with quirky Spanish tunes. When we left at 2am, the streets were still teaming with women in hip fashion and men in stylish suits...just gearing up for an even later night. For us... bedtime... to the gentle rumble of tires on the cobblestones beneath our window. .

Thursday (Sevilla)...

2010-05-30T03:20:00.003-07:00

Awoke to Jeff's iPhone alarm clock...an adorable (adorably funny...sorry) sound clip of neice Mia saying "twinkle little star!". Sure beats the jarring noise my phone makes!

Headed off to our first of three stops for the day...the Museo Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija. (Passed dozens of designer fashion and shoe shops...smiled fondly for Sherie :) The Palacio is the early 20th century mansion-turned-museum of the late Countess of Lebrija. Clearly an independent woman, she married at 49, widowed at 50 with no kids, and set off on a solo around-the-globe shopping spree soon therafter... picking up antiques and artifacts, china and furniture, paintings and tile from all corners. The ground floor is famous for its collection of Roman mosaics...many of which are installed as regular-use floors in the mansion, and yes, we got to walk on them. The Countess didn't hesitate to move a wall to accommodate the shape of her "new" floors. Shelves loaded with ancient archeological fragments. China from China...as well as Europe...with one set only the second in existence with the other at Buckingham Palace. A pricey painting from the Dutch master Bruegal. And who doesn't need their own private chapel with a glittery altar...perhaps for those days the chef makes sinful desserts?

On to the Catedral de Sevilla, past the pack of Gypsy women outside the gate offering twigs of rosemary. The cathedral is the 3rd largest in Europe behind Rome's St. Peter's and London's St. Paul's. (Ooooo, we have completed the tri-fecta!) Built primarily during the 15th and 16th centuries, portions pre-date the main construction (the 12th century Moorish mineraret (now bell tower) and exterior courtyard/patio) and portions we're built for centuries to follow. The caverous Gothic interior is filled with glittery church-stuff, including beautiful stained glass and an impressive 65-foot-tall golden high-altar. Workmen feverishly polished all things silver for some upcoming celebration (including hand-carried "floats" topped with silver statues). Local hero Chistopher Columbus' massive and somber tomb drew a snapshot crowd.

A warm afternoon walk past the Lamedas de Hercules (Jeff dubbed them the "pillars of Hercules)...four marble pillars anchoring either end of a huge oval plaza. (Our theory is this is the site of the city's former Roman circus... something to research.) Visited the small Basilica de la Macarena and its famous altar with the Weeping Virgin. This towering display glitters to entertain the eyes, but draws you in to stir the soul. Its difficult not to sit in silence and stare.

Left the Macarena...and spent the remainder of the day humming that incessant song! Circled a portion of the old city wall and returned to the hotel via a LONG river walk. Spotted a bridge by Calatrava (Maybe? Probably?) Joggers and sunbathers and skateboarders. Rockclimbers scaled the undersides of arched stone bridges.

Another wonderful late evening. Mojitos on the rooftop as the sun set. Our first paella for dinner. An evening return to the Pillars of Hercules, which transforms at night to a hotspot...with dozens of restaurants and bars...overflowing with cheery locals. We walking until we felt like the last people on the streets. It will be hard to say goodbye to Sevilla.

Wednesday (Sevilla)...

2010-05-30T03:20:00.001-07:00

Italy will always have a special place in my heart, but Spain is certainly a wonderful second. Layers of cultures, friendly people, creative food, a sunny climate, late-night dining and long strolls. What's not to love! We are having such a wonderful, inviting first trip to Spain that its hard to imagine we will not return...soon.

We spent the bulk of the day at one location...one sumptuous location...the Real Alcazar. This is the oldest in-use royal palace in Europe...basically a 14th century makeover of a 10th century Moorish palace by a Catholic monarch. The building and its walled gardens are a feast for the senses. The eyes are captivated by colorful tile floors, towering mosaic walls and elaborate ceilings. The ears are entranced by slow trickling fountains, tall trees blowing the the breeze, and hundreds of nesting doves cooing to their mates. The nose picks up the sweet scent of hundreds of citrus tree flowers, the pungent bite of scattered falled oranges, and freshly watered soil. The skin tingles with the transition from warm sunny alcoved gardens to cool palace rooms to damp royal baths.

We wandered for hours, and circled around to take it all in again.

After hours wandering and staring and interpreting, we indulged with a couple of beers on the roof terrace, watching the swallows swoop overhead for late afternoon insects. The perfect time to try (in vain?) to catch up on some blogging. Or to stare at the carefree birds and have another beer :)

Our pre-dinner stroll was through Maria Luisa Park...the site of the 1929 international exposition. The Plaza de Espana and several other remaining buildings anchored the ends of long pathways with dozens of tiny gardens and features. A dozen or so parrots (or some long-tailed green birds) circled together overhead. Old fountains sat dry.

We ended the day with a late tapas dinner, a night time walk, and drinks on the roof. Rinse and repeat...with pleasure.

Tuesday (Cordoba to Sevilla)...

2010-05-30T03:19:00.001-07:00

Began the day bright and early with the royal Alcazar and its walled gardens. The building itself housed tapestries and mosaics. A highlight was the tower...not a high tower...just high enough to provide interesting views of the gardens and the city. The gardens were beautiful, with tiered pools and foutains. A historic gravity-fed irrigation system ran throughout the entire garden...bricked trenches that carried water to every corner. Watched gardeners move metal "gates" that directed rivers of water into specific gardens...sunken to absorb pools of water for deep irrigation.

Visited the only surviving synagogue predating the forced-conversion of non-Christians by the Catholic monarchs. A tiny gem...the synagogue was primarily one room with mosaics and inscriptions. We learned that this one of only three surviving synagogues in Spain from that era...the other two in Toledo...which we had visited days before.

Time to leave Cordoba. Ducked into the Mezquita courtyard (free) to wander the rows of orange trees. Watched a row of trees getting their morning soak with another gravity-fed irrigation system that fed deep roots. Took a breezy walk to the train station.

The AVE train zipped us to Sevilla in less than 45 minutes. Dropping further along the Guadalquivir River, we passes dry grasses and squat orange trees. The monitor read 250kph. Hibee to Sevilla.

Arrived at the perfectly situated EME Catedral Hotel...aptly named for its next-door neighbor...the cathedral (duh). A glass of perfectly-chilled light red Spanish wine while we waited for our room. And oh what a room...an oaisis of tranquility. Sophisticated yet comfortable. Comtemporary yet functional. Lunch (tapas) in the Santa Cruz neighborhood.

Visited the city's historic bull ring (and museum). One of the oldest in all of Spain. Upwards of 20 thousand spectators turn up every Sunday in May and June (and a special show for Easter) to watch 3 matadors fight 6 bulls. I'm pretty sure I would not want to watch a bull fight, but the ring was fascinating. Things I learned...this is certainly a sport, but it began as practice for fighting enemies in the Middle Ages. Every fight is 20 minutes...in precise 5 minute stages. the matador makes the bull dip its head so tha he can jump over the horns to make a precise kill into the heart. There are specific rules for what can happen in the shadowed and sunlight parts of the oval ring. If a bull performs well, the matador clips one of its ears; if it does very well, both ears: and an exception fight...off goes the tail. The meat is sold at market. Truly fascinating.

A bird pooped on my head as we left the bull ring. Gracias.

Walked along the Guadalquivir River under a canopy of trees. Crew teams and kayakers zipped by. A rag-tag band of young trumpters "practiced". The cool afternoon breeze felt wonderful. Spotted an iced coffee.

The hotel's soothing rain shower washed away the days grime and soothed aching calves. Calming music on the cd player. Fully refreshed, we had dinner in a cozy coutyard in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. No tapas tonight...tried some recommended dishes...pork and veal. Spanish wine from Castilla-Leon.

By 1am the streets finally start to get quiet. Tossed a Euro to a guitarist playing soothing tunes outside the cathedral. Mojitos...wonderful mojitos...cool refreshing mojitos on top of the hotel overlooking the cathedral...amazing. (Kim...these mojitos need to be on your to-do list :)

Achy feet trundled off to bed.

Testing...

2010-05-30T03:18:00.001-07:00

For signs of life from Blogger?

Someone clean out the pipes...

2010-05-28T10:21:00.000-07:00

Wouldn't you know it. I start blogging again and the pipes fill up :( Three days of updates waiting to post! Isn't some IT person's pager going off yet? Sigh. That's free for ya!

Monday (Cordoba)...

2010-05-26T10:16:00.001-07:00

Got a (somewhat) early start to beat the heat and the crowds...although we really haven't seen mobs of tourists...just the occasional glut when a bus tour releases its cattle. The herds of Asian or European moo-moos meander through every now and then, trampelling everything in their path, moving erratically and stopping randomly. (We've seen solo American travelers, but no groups yet.)

The Mezquita is an enormous 8th century Islamic mosque constructed on the ruins of a destroyed 5th century church with a 16th century cathedral poking up through the center. The mosque is considered one of the most beautiful in the world. The signature features of the old mosque are the rows and rows of marble columns (850 according to the guidebook...no we didn't count) interconnected by red and white double-arches. No matter what direction you turn, the columns lead your eyes onward to infinity. The ceilings are wooden, with patterns that vary depending on the age of the section...the mosque was expanded twice. Around the perimeter are dozens and dozens of naves, each containing an altar or a sculpture or a painting...and usually a mixture of all three. Several of the naves still contain Islamic features, including the mosques original focal point...the Mihrab...which directed worshipers' eyes to Mecca. In the center of all of this darkly-lit symmetry sits a towering, bright Christian cathedral, begun in the early 16th century. Ornate decoration draw attention upward.

A quick snack and then we crossed the Roman Bridge to the tiny tower-housed museum at the end...the Museum of Al-Andalus Life. This interpretative museum told stories of Islam in Spain, including large-scale replicas of the Mezquita and the Alhambra's Palacios Nazaries in Granada.

Despite a cooling breeze, the hot afternoon sun moved us to another cool dip in the pool. We dined outdoors (again)...this time in a cozy restaurant beneath the city-wall gates. Yummy flan for desert. We ended the day with late drinks at Soul. Dire Straits...old and new(er). The Clash' London Calling. Elvis. Quite the mix.

Each day seems to top the last. Not an easy feat!

Sunday (Toledo to Cordoba)...

2010-05-24T12:08:00.001-07:00

Started what would turn out to be a long, long walking day with a short walk to Iglesia de San Ramon, a small 13th century church with some beautiful frescoes and Mudejar achitectural features. It also housed a small collection of artifacts from the Visigoths...all explained in Spanish...so our eyes were mainly gazing upward at the colorful wood ceiling.

A quick stop for pastries and cappuccinos, and back to the hotel to pack up and say goodbye to Toledo. A quick taxi to the train station. And with a quick ride on the hourly AVE train, we were back in Madrid...or at least the Atocha train station. Snack time.

The AVE train to Cordoba was lightly populated...tourists and locals scattered about the blue and white seats. Leaving Madrid, the terrain was gently rolling, keeping the eyes entertained and the mind soothed. Rows and rows of olive trees. Fields of bright-red poppies. Pallets of bricks. As we moved south into Andalucia, the rolling fields gave way to rocky hills with jagged ravines topped with pines and short, deep-green oaks. Grazing livestock filled in the gaps. Numerous pitch-black tunnels created a slide show effect as we swept from valley to valley. Scattered sun-bleached haciendas with terra cotta tiled roofs and enclosed courtyards.

But soon enough, we transitioned back to green and gold fields as we neared Cordoba. Our arrival was smooth, into a modern glass-and-metal train station. Took a leasurely 20 minute walk through a wide city park, past fountains and Roman ruins to reach our hotel. Certainly a gem of a hotel...ultra-contemporary design with an outer shell of copper panels peppered with holes. Reminiscent of the de Young museum in San Francisco. Our room was bright and sophisticated, with views of a fountain and the Mezquita.

Took a soothing dip in the roof-top pool. The cold water instantly whisked away the fatigue of the intense afternoon sun. Refreshed and cooled, we began a long walk that became dinner that became a late night. No interiors this afternoon...today was an orientation stroll through old Cordoba and its unique blend of Moorish, Christian, and Jewish cutures. Started with the long 12th century city wall, with long cascading pools outside. This led us to the Alcazar de los Reyes Christianos...the former royal fortress. We skirted the outer wall and walked along the Guadalquivir River...which we heard but only occasionally saw...a wide river at the fall line...with a grass and tree-filled flood plain. Approached the impressive (and imposing) Mezquita, and circled its sandy-orange walls, with Moorish arches, golden doors, and intricate stone carvings. The belltower caught the afternoon sun, while the streets below were hidden in shadow.

As evening set, we wandered through the narrow, winding streets of the Jewish Quarter. The low residential buildings were all painted in shades of white with trims in yellows and golds and oranges. Needless to say, the Medieval street pattern combined with the uniformity of the building made keeping a sense of direction difficult. We found a tempting outdoor tapas restaurant...Casa Rubio. Once again, an amazing mixture of flavors. Moorish potatos with a savory spicy curry sauce. Tender pork with a rich truffle sauce. A creamy Spanish omlette. Oh, and of course...manchego cheese...this time drizzled with olive oil and topped with toasted almonds. We finished with a light-yet-rich rice pudding with cinnamon ice cream.

We walked off all those calories with a long route through the Jewish Quarter, around the lit-up Mezquita, and across the cities Roman bridge. Happened upon a city carnival, full of late night revelers. Even after midnight, kids were clutching their balloons and adults were indulging in twisty churros and waffles piled high with ice cream. Women dressed in flamenco outfits. The bridge and adjacent buildings were lined with lights.

Legs and feet need a break. Time for bed.

Saturday (Toledo)...

2010-05-22T17:44:00.001-07:00

Started the day with a morning visit to the nearby monastery...San Juan de los Reyes. This Franciscan monastery and attached church was tarted up as the burial site for Isabel and Ferdinand...but now sits as a quiet wanna-be :) The interior of the church is beautiful and grand, and the adjacent courtyard was sunny and scented with orange blossoms. A well-sized mesh above let cheery songbirds in and kept pooping pigeons out.

Pastries and cappuccinos fueled us for our next two stops...two synagogues...also nearby our hotel. The Synagogue de Santa Maria la Blanca was a simple single-room structure that combined Jewish, Christian, and Moorish elements. The Synagogue del Transito (free today!!!) featured an ornate wooden ceiling and an intricate plaster wall with pink and green highlights. Neither synagogue had English interpretation...so we spent time oggling the architechture and moved along.

A random set of graffittied stairs brought us to an unexpected park overlooking the montastery and the river beyond. From there, we continued up to the Iglesias de los Jesuitos. This gem was perched on the tallest hill in the city with a bright, sunlit interior and two lofty belltowers offering panoramic views of the nearby cathedral city below. This was church that was begging to be loved...gilded ornamentation, cool temps, photos encouraged...and a low-price Coca Cola machine on the way down from the towers. There couldn't have been more than 5 other people in the church while we were there. Awesome!

Next on the hit parade: Santa Tome. This tiny church had one famous asset...El Greco's "The Burial of the Count of Orgaz"...his grand masterpiece...right in the place he intended it to be installed. Certainly worth waiting for the tour groups to depart. This wonder was full of mini-scenes and intricate details. The main chapel was also bright and colorful...but who was paying attention.

Late afternoon, we kept in the deep shadows to stay cool. We took paths less traveled, trying to get lost. And yet we always seemed to circle back to some spot we knew. Popped into an exhibit Obra Social...a former church of some type...currently housing an exhibit entitled "El Arte del Desnudo"...a study of the nude figure in paintings and sculpture. How odd. Although, come to think of it, churches are FULL of nude frescos. Maybe not so odd after all.

Moving on we had a snack. And more to drink. Boy that later afternoon sun sure is strong. Wandered back, resisting the temptation to buy shiny trinkets of gold and steel.

Returned to "El Corralito" for our last dinner in Toledo. Frankly, the food+outdoor vibe was too much to resist. Added delightful plates of grilled chorizo and cheesy croquettas along two favorites from last night...the must-have manchego cheese and that fricking amazing pork/beef/tomato dish. Ugh...seriously...I was going to snap a picture of the menu to remember the name of that dish! Ah well, three beers later I really had better things to do.

Returned to the cathedral at midnight. The bells tolled and late-night revellers wandered by. Overhead, bats dipped and swooshed in the spotlights. A huge owl glided silently across the square to a hidden perch atop the cathedral.

Wandering Toledo's streets after midnight reminded us of Venice and Siena...pretty high compliments in our travel itinerary. We stopped into Alfileritos 24...a cozy restaurant with a bright orange bar...cervezas taste even better from an orange bar. Ben E King and Gun n Roses mixed it up. Jeff was captivated by the upstairs restaurant...with its two story glass and blue light design. A must for our next trip to Toledo.

A final stroll back to the hotel down a street with "Tome" in its name...we dubbed Marisa Tomei street. Ya know...its MY blog. Sleepy time.

Friday (Toledo)...

2010-05-22T07:53:00.001-07:00

Awoke to a cheery Spanish sunbeam. (Oddly enough, my mental soundtrack was playing a mash-up of the 30 Rock intro and some sappy Brian Adams power-ballad...I ignored the omens...whatever the heck they foretold!) Recovered from the multi-modal travel yesterday, we headed off towards Toledo's grand cathedral.

Along the way, we stopped at one of the many pastry shops. The specialty in Toledo is marzapan, but we saved that for desert and grabbed two flaky pastries--one lemon, one raisin. A nice light breakfast.

Toledo's cathedral is truly cavernous, and ornate, and all the things you want in a landmark. You can see why this one took 250 years to build! The march of time was evident as we wandered from nave to nave, each one showing off flurishes of a new era. And every so often, as the odd shape of the city blocks permitted, the builders crammed in a side room or two...tiny spaces crammed with art (a dozen or so famous works by local favorite El Greco), or garments, or golden objects dotted with jewels. Wonderfully cool temperatures made it difficult to leave this sanctuary from the real world...the reverent silence broken only by the occasional cries of "no photos" across the croud.

We followed winding streets decorated for a holiday for Corpus Cristi. A long twisted path through the city was lined with ornate and varied lanterns, while long ribbons of cream-colored canvas were suspended above the streets. The meaning of these covered paths escapes us so far--the only book we found so far is in Spanish only--but we took delight in the visual treat...and resulting shade! Wandered past the municpal market smelling of fresh fish. Named a sleeping dog Paco. Grabbed a warm ham and cheese sandwich.

We made our way past the busy Plaza de Zocodover to our next stop...the Santa Cruz Museum...now a tiny (and free) museum with designs to be something grander. In spite of ongoing construction, the building and grounds were full of unexpected beauty...a peaceful, two-story cloister; an ornately carved staircase full of whimsical figures; rooms peppered with even more works by El Grecco; a dozen huge tapestries with tales of La Mancha.

With a sense of a general direction, we set off for our next stop...a tiny Moorish mosque. We wove through tiny streets, circled and backtracked a few time, and felt the grand delight of being lost without caring. Views of the lazy Rio Tajo below and sorrounding Castille - La Mancha beyond. Occasional feral cats darted across our path. Delivery trucks folded in their mirrors to squeeze down narrow streets. Finally, La Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz...an 11th century mosque converted in the 12th century to a church. Under some sort of restoration, this tiny, two-room building shows off Moorish arches and intricate stone ceilings. The grounds include an overlook of the city walls and the Gate of the Sun...one of several we could explore.

The Gate of the Sun had a free exhibit inside, which also allowed us to peer down on unsuspecting walkers. Boil the oil! We wandered outside the wall through the Bisagra Gate, ducked into the cozy courtyard gardens of Hostal del Cardenal, and strolled along to the multi-level escalators, whisking us back up into the city. Strolled along the western and southern edges of the city...high above the Tajo. "Discovered" the ruins of baths near the water. Felt inspired to shower before dinner.

An even later dinner (9:30-ish) seemed fitting. Tapas at "El Corralito". Patatas bravas. Queso Manchego. And some divine specialty of tender pork and beef in a spicy tomato sauce (I will call it "muy yummy" since the actual Spanish name escapes me). Washed them down with several cold cervezas.

Meandered through quiet city streets stopping for the occasional nighttime photo. Watched the lights go out at the cathedral at 1am. Fell asleep with a head full of memories.

Wednesday/Thursday (SFO to Toledo)...

2010-05-20T16:06:00.000-07:00

With a skeptical eye on the roving plume of volcanic ash meandering around Europe, we headed to SFO with an 'on time' notice from United. Soon enough, our pilot had received our 'slot' in the approved route guiding North American travelers safely over the north Atlantic and we were on our way. Our path to Frankfurt was notably more southern than in previous trips, but we only arrived 15 minutes late! Not bad at all given the dicey conditions. Along the way, we met a jolly German woman returning home from a trip to California--her two glasses of Champagne made her VERY chatty--and a middle-aged American man traveling solo to Florence. (Sigh...Florence!!!)

A light rain tapered off as we landed. Maybe the rain is what kept the ash at bay. No sooner had we stepped out of our gate in Frankfurth, than Jeff spotted his friend Tom from his Detroit days! What a small world. Cramming as many happy 'what's new' comments as possible into a 15min chat, and we were back on track to find our Lufthansa gate to Madrid. A shoulder-to-shoulder bus wisked us out to our plane...a cramped little number compared to the 747 that brought us across the pond.

The Alps and Pyrenees broke up the fertile green checkerboard fileds of Europe as we flew south. These were our first fleeting glimpses of Spain and its arid terrain. We landed in Madrid and zipped through arrivals. Then it was a short 15min taxi ride downtown to the Atocha train station to catch a high-speed AVE train to Toledo. The station is beautiful and bright...but no photos allowed :( Damn terrorists. For the 30min hop to Toledo, we sat across from a chatty father-daughter traveling team from Oregon nearing the end of their journey. They shared cautionary tales of pick pockets. (Unemployment in Spain is 20 percent!)

In the blink of an eye we were disembarking in Toledo...the well-preserved former capital of Spain. Our hotel is right in the midst of the historic city housed in a beautiful historic building. A quick shower returned us to human status. We spent the late afternoon wandering the windy streets passing by sights...the cathedral, lots of tucked-away churches, and tiny alleys...all whose names I have already forgotten. They will all stick when we actually visit them tomorrow :)

We found a cozy tapas restaurant for a late dinner (9:30) under a clear sky with a perfect breeze. Potatoes, a spanich fritatta, beef and gorganzola, and two icy beers. Wonderful!

We took the long route home through deserted streets. A few nighttime photos to document the peaceful scene.

We will sleep well tonight :) Buenos noches.

Getting ready...

2010-05-17T13:53:00.001-07:00

Dusting off the ole blog in preparation for our trip. Fingers crossed.

Amsterdam in Disney 3D...

2010-01-31T10:45:00.000-08:00

Well, I promised myself that I would post images from Amsterdam in January, before the memories of New Years faded away. Interestingly, the short winter days of Northern Europe didn't curb my shutter-happy fingers...so this posting is over-stuffed with images. But before commencing with the colorful revelry, I thought I would indulge in some stream-of-conscious memories...

Gelukkig nieuwjaar.
Eyeing the Rembrants and the Van Goghs.
WAFFLES!!
Standing in extra long lines in the cold.
Visiting the Hermitage and its Russian court dress.
Powdered sugar on warm donuts.
Sh** toe.
Dodging firecrackers in Nieuwmarkt.
Being mistaken for 25.
Tapas at Duende with friends old and new.
Snow-capped bridges over icy canals.
Church in the red light district.
Wandering the Jordaan.
PC Cafe.
Savory pancakes.
Vondel Hotel.
Vigorous frisking at Schiphol Airport.
Dancing at EXIT.
New Dutch friends.
COLD COLD COLD

And now...on with the pictures.

Stormy weather...

2010-01-18T21:30:00.000-08:00

Jeff and I took a drive around the City this afternoon as a strong winter storm passed through. We stopped near Fort Point to watch surfers catch the huge swells coming in thru the Golden Gate. Our front row seat was all the more intense as the occasional wave crashed up onto the windshield.

North to Alaska...

2009-11-08T18:12:00.000-08:00

I spent a few days in mid-October in Anchorage...my first visit to this town. Autumn had long-since taken most of the leaves, but the trees that held onto their leaves were brilliant in fall splendor.

I didn't take many photos 1) because I was working but mainly 2) because when I wasn't working it was dark. Still...here is the return of an old friend...the cheery hotel window shot!

I did have a couple of very nice dinners, courtesy of fine recommendations from my good buddy Josh. The yummy Alaskan halibut was at the popular Glacier Brehouse. Thanks Josh!

Ground control to Major John...

2009-11-08T15:01:00.000-08:00

A few years ago, I had the good fortune of visiting Kennedy Space Center during a work meeting. Around the same time, one of my dear my coworkers down in Southern California took me on a golf-cart ride out to see the Shuttle's 747 at Edwards AFB. Well, two weeks ago, I was able to tour Houston's Mission Control Center...and I was once again in heaven.

We started out tour in the "classic" Mission Control from the Apollo days. This is the Mission Control they replicated for the Apollo 13 movie set...and yes, that is me looking as dashing as Ed Harris in the Flight Directors seat. As dated as this center looks, it was used well into the Space Shuttle days...all without any computer controls in the consoles...just monitors and buttons and the like. I'm a BIG fan of the pneumatic tubes :)

And here is Sarah trying to out Ed Harris me :)

We moved from "Mission Control classic" to the Mission Control that is used for the International Space Station. A tad bit more modern and flashy...and a tad less olive green. The four-person crew of the Station came on-screen during our tour for an interview (not with us). Still, it was fun to watch them pose in zero gravity.

Our third and final Mission Control was the one used for the current Space Shuttle missions. Since the Shuttle is currently on the ground, we were watching them run simulations of day-to-day operations. Evidently, the "overlords" who run the simulations like to throw sudden decompressions or power outages into the mix to keep everyone on their toes. I wonder if they ever simulate an alien attack!! :)

Our last stop was a quick walk through the space station mock-up area, where full-scale models of the various station parts are on display.

Visitor from a far-away land...well...Texas...

2009-11-07T18:00:00.000-08:00

There is nothing quite like reconnecting with an old friend. Jeff and I had the surprise pleasure of hosting my dear friend Heath, who I hadn't seen since just after I moved from Virginia. Heath is a wide-eyed adventurer, who infused his unbounded energy into our home and our weekend.

On Sunday, we drove up into Napa and "discovered" a new winery...Frog's Leap. We enjoyed the wine and the hospitality enough to join the Frogs Leap wine club. Oh yeah...and we fended off a nasty yellowjacket attack at Domaine Carneros...nasty sting, but a fun story :)

On Saturday, we started the day with a brunch spot we had been hoping to try...the cozy and uber-popular Serpentine...located in the emerging Dogpatch neighborhood. (For reference...most of the SF graffiti photos you've seen from me over the past two years were taken within a mile of this restaurant.) The menu is short and changes routinely, but one of the staples is the country fried steak and eggs smothered in this amazing gravy. How could I resist!! (Answer...I could not.)

After brunch, we ventured out to the Ocean...first to the bluffs of Ft. Funston, with its abandoned gun batteries and fearless hang gliders...and then for a hearty walk at Lands End, complete with a rock-outlined labyrinth.

In one of the rocky tidal coves, we discovered these colorful starfish clinging to the slippery rocks awaiting the return of water.

Thanks for a grand adventure, Heath. Come back and visit with us soon!

Griffith Observatory...

2009-11-07T17:29:00.000-08:00

During our recent visit to LA, we stopped into the historic Griffith Observatory atop Griffith Park. The observatory was recently renovated...but this was our first visit...so it was all new to us. The historic structure is bright and clean, and hidden beneath the front "lawn" is a buried new exhibit area.

Slow Club...yummy...

2009-10-11T11:44:00.000-07:00

Jeff, Chris, and I visited the tiny Slow Club restaurant on the edge of Potrero Hill. The small menu is full of yummy delights. I started with a surprising special margarita, which was spiked with a habanero kick. Ribeye is my favorite cut of beef, and Slow Club's version did not disappoint. Desert was a top-notch strawberry shortcake...although I will argue with anyone that shortcake should be a biscuit and not a yellow sponge cake. (For this reason, I am going to give the dessert prize to Jeff's dish...a decadent pumpkin-raisin bread pudding...it was amazing!) We will return for sure.

A return to paradise...

2009-10-10T18:01:00.000-07:00

While long vacations have eluded us this year, Jeff and I have been luck to tag a few vacation days on to two business trips to O'ahu. For the third time in a year, we found ourselves at the comfy and convenient Hilton Hawaiian Village on the white sandy beaches of Waikiki. On this visit, we were up high in the Hilton's Rainbow tower, which made for a spectacular (and unique) vantage point for their Friday fireworks.

For me, a highlight of any trip is the food. Oh the food :) One of our favorite indulgences has become the Tuesday/Thursday grill menu at the fabulous Halekulani's House Without A Key. Start with a mai tai, indulge in a juicy surf and turf burger, and finish with a heavenly while coconut cake. And of course, you get to enjoy all of this while being entertained by calm, melodic Hawaiian music. Its pure escapism.

We also added something new to our list this trip...a visit to the famous Matsumoto's shave ice in historic Haleiwa on the North Shore. We had passed the long lines before and always said "next time". Well, this time we stood dutifully in line with the masses and enjoyed this sweet, chilly island tradition.

One of our drives around Honolulu took us on some of the winding roads that provide unexpected sweeping vistas. In this town, you're never far from a view of Diamond Head, Waikiki, or Pearl Harbor...or all of the above.

At one point, we drove into the serene Punchbowl National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, which is a hidden gem above the city.

The rest of the trip was filled with drives and vistas and swims around O'ahu. Its hard to point the camera without finding something pretty.

Fun with flowers...

2009-10-04T17:29:00.000-07:00

This past spring, I found artistic inspiration in the garden and got several new photos to build upon for a possible new series. Recently, I ventured back into our sunny back yard to work with our early-autumn flowers. The results are eye-catching and fun...and much darker than my spring series. I'm totally having fun with this :)

A surprise for brunch...

2009-10-04T16:57:00.000-07:00

Jeff and I stumbled on this tiny restaurant--Bar Jules--in Hayes Valley and decided to try it out one sunny Sunday morning. With its colorful walls and cozy seating area, it immediately strikes you as a European cafe. The menu is tiny, fresh, and changes daily. On this Sunday, we were both drawn to a simple, baked egg dish, with buttery potatoes, savory slow-roasted beef, and punchy spinach. We are determined to return for dinner!

Nice place to perch...

2009-08-01T15:59:00.000-07:00

This brave dove planted herself in one of our tall pots on the balcony today. She has turned around a few times, but seems to like the breeze in her face. From this prime vantage point, she looks out over the hill below.

(We won't mention it to her, but the last time a dove nested in that spot, we found the egg cracked and fallen from the nest! I hope this dove fares better. You can read about the previous dove here...and the sad fate of her egg here.)

Island paradise...

2009-07-10T07:17:00.000-07:00

Jeff and I got to spend a few days on Oahu recently...always one of our favorite places to unwind and relax. Our room at the Hilton Hawaiian Village was perched high, facing Diamond Head and the Waikiki Beach. Notice the evil pigeons that invaded our room each morning! The Hilton is at one end of Waikiki, so it has this wonderful view back over the entire arch of the beach.

One of our favorite spots to stop and snorkel along the North Shore is Sharks Cove...known for its volcanic rocks and warm clear pools. At low tide, the pools are quite shallow, but as the tides come back in, the pools get this cool fluctuation of water levels going. Jeff spotted a humuhumunukunukuāpuaʻa fish amongst the rocks :)

Some of the nearly North Shore beaches are a bit more active and rougher. This one might be looking back out towards the famous Pipeline beach...famous for its primo surfing. For us, this spot was a great place to get hammered by huge waves.

We stopped at Pali Point, and took a stroll along the old Pali Road. This is the old, twisting route down the pass. Today, its a fun path with great vistas...and some cool post-apocalyptic road images.

Along the Eastern side of the island, we stopped at Lanikai Beach...crystal blue water to bob in as the afternoon sun draws longer shadows. Surprisingly, this stretch of white sand was not crowded. No waves here, I guess. For us, this side of the island has become one of our favorites areas to end the day.

We stopped at another popular overlook to people watch. (This is on the southeast corner of Oahu, near the "blowhole" overlook...although I didn't take a picture of the blowhole rock this time.) We did get to spot a whale passing by...not the best lens for whale photography, but at least you can see the whale clear its blowhole :)

Hmmmm, let's see...here is our calm pool at the Hilton to float before dinner. Once we trekked back to the room to clean up for the evening, it was hard to resist one last float in water.

We found some wonderful dinner spots on this trip...one of our favortie was dinner outdoors at the Halekulai hotel in Waikiki. This is the House Without A Key lounge/restaurant with amazing an mai tai :) On Thursdays, they serve an out-of-this-world surf and turn burger...and EVERYDAY they serve a truly decadent coconut cake. YUMMM!

On one afternoon, we decided to take a hose ride at the historic Kualoa Ranch on the eastern side of the island. Unfortunately, we had to make reservations a day in advance...non-refundable reservations...and it just so happened that a soaking rain blew through that afternoon. Let me tell you, no begging will get that reservation refunded :) Ah well. It makes for a good story anyway :) We did the full 2-hour trip back into a lush valley. Kinda peaceful after you learn to ignore the raindrops :) Oh, by the way...the cooperative brown horse FACING the camera below is Jeff's horse. Mine was the white one who didn't want his pic taken...so I photographed its butt. TAKE THAT!

Back along the North Shore, we stopped at one of the popular beaches...Waimea State Beach. This one is a magnet for the adventurous...of the insane...because it comes complete with a jumping rock...and lots of warnings to NOT jump. We didn't jump.

And I'll wrap up this post with a variety of miscelaneous images. FYI, Storto's is Jeff's absolute favorite sandwich shop in the world...made extra yummy by their soft, sweet Hawaiian bread. It is worth a stop.

Hotels...wow...

2009-06-15T08:17:00.000-07:00

My blog hiatus didn't stop me from continuing to take snapshots of my hotel windows. Boy have there been a few! Here, you'll find the TEN hotel rooms I had the pleasure of laying my sleepy head. Its actually much more interesting to look at these windows as a grouping. The bland uniformity of hotel furniture is striking...although a few hotels get kudos for mixing it up a bit :)

See if you can pick out the locations: lots of McLean and Seattle. Some southern California in there. San Antonio. Honolulu (ok...that one is obvious). LOL and a lovely shot of scenic DC (hint...its the brick wall).

Dated humor...

2009-06-15T07:25:00.000-07:00

As I was digging through my work travel photos, I ran across this snippet from the USA Today. This edition came during the height of the swine flu hysteria...AND while I was on travel with the sniffles...thinking that I had surely picked up the swine flu on the flight. Sooooo, I found it particularly humorous...or disturbing...that USA Today chose two stories to highlight from its website: swine flu and American Idol.

Inspiring...

2009-06-14T10:50:00.000-07:00

There is a quirky art installation near Inspiration Point in the Presidio. In a recently cleared and re-planted section of the aging historic forest, artist Andy Goldsworthy has assembled a tower of felled lumber called The Spire.

Pretty...

2009-06-14T10:07:00.000-07:00

We spotted this odd rainbow on a drive through Sonoma. It was unusual (to me) to see this rainbow hug to close to the ground.

Night at the museum...

2009-06-14T09:37:00.000-07:00

The new California Academy of Science in Golden Gate Park has become an instant landmark...it is also INCREDIBLY popular. Since it opened last fall, we have tried to visit several times, only to be met by amazingly long lines. And then the Academy did something ingenious...it opened the museum on Thursday nights...and made it adults only. They served alcohol and played club music. They made it a hip destination.

When we visited, it was still crowded, and we couldn't see everything...but we got a nice walk-thru of the major parts. We didn't get to go into the planetarium...so we will HAVE to go back. (I can't imagine what the museum is like during the day, with kids running everywhere and strollers clogging the narrow passages.)

Under one part of its eco-friendly, undulating, living roof, the museum houses an enclosed, multi-level rain forest (above). Since most of the museum is glass and steel, this glowing green orb is visible from 2/3 of the main floor...surrounded by pools of water that give you a glimpse of the aquariums on the floor below.

And yes, the museum also houses non-living (or formerly living) displays, such as its historic African diaramas, and jars upon jars of animals in various states of dissection.

A fitting post...

2009-05-10T15:24:00.000-07:00

Well, yes, I seem to have taken quite the sabbatical from the blog. But hey...it was nice to check in every now and then to see Buster's smiling face :) But for Mother's Day, I decided to venture out in the garden and send along a slight different perspective on the floral bouquet.

Hmmmmm, now if I can only remember what I've done since March!

Remembering Buster...

2009-03-15T18:31:00.000-07:00

It has been a week since Buster passed away, and I haven't quite known what (or if) to post. The house seems so quiet without him...Buster was quite the talker. Dobie is still wandering from room to room searching for her companion. Jeff and I realize more each day just how big a role Buster played in our lives...he was Jeff's reliable company when I was away.

So, I dug through some old images of Buster, looking for those silly moments that still crack me up. Buster was either right in your face (literally) or sleeping. Often, he combined these two, and would fall asleep with his nose inches from ours. His favorite spot in the world was either on our chest, or nestled into that cozy nook created by our arm, our neck, and the sofa.

In the days right before he died, Buster spent most of his time by the fireplace, and loved being rubbed as he slept. His little white paws slowly kneaded the air, just as he had done since the day I got him. Oh, Buster. Old Crooked Head. Butter. We miss you. We know that somewhere, there is a fireplace for you to curl in front of :)

In the shadow of the mountain...

2009-03-01T16:07:00.000-08:00

I took a quick work-trip to Colorado Springs this past week. My puddle jumper prop flight from Denver to the Springs was 20 minutes of nauseating chop. Ugh. The flight put me in a bit of an edgy mood, so when the fine folks at the Cheyenne Mountain Resort stuck me in a room with a view of the conference center hallway, I was uncharacteristically high-maintenance and insisted on a move.

My new room had a fine morning view of the infamous Cheyenne Mountain--the home of NORAD. (My only actual knowledge of NORAD is from War Games with plucky Matthew Broderick.)

Shall we play a game?

Robot Friday...

2009-02-20T08:46:00.000-08:00

The lobby of the building where I work has hosted some odd installation art over the years, but this one is our first wooden robot.

Sight seeing...

2009-02-16T15:12:00.000-08:00

Ah...a break in the rain. So, Jeff and I took our LA visitors out for a walk to the bridge and back. The rough weather brought with it some attractive waves for the band of surfers underneath the southern anchorage of the bridge.

A splash of color on a gray Sunday...

2009-02-08T10:41:00.000-08:00

It has been a couple of months since I last wandered into my favorite Bayshore back streets. So I took a detour on my way to grab our Sunday morning lattes, and found some new color under gray skies.

Atlanta highlight...

2009-02-08T10:10:00.000-08:00

In addition to reuniting with several of my favorite coworkers from across the country, another high point of my short trip last week to Atlanta was dinner at the charming Dogwood Restaurant...and upscale Southern food restaurant. I had a creative fried chicken dish over a heavenly mac and cheese, that far exceeded my expectations. And my dessert? A signature dish: bread pudding with a chunky bacon ice cream...I know it sounds odd, but it was really yum yum. (I think it helped that the friendly sous chef came over to chat about creating the dish LOL.)

Avoidance...

2009-02-08T10:03:00.000-08:00

The observant Tribulations reader might have noticed fewer shots in my "Hotel Window" series. Well, this is due more to mood than method. Frankly, I'm traveling just as much, but I find the hotel shots to be a reminder of the most trying part of the trip, versus the stories of food or friends. So, I stopped posted the shots unless they fit the chipper story I was telling :)

So, to catch you up...here are three window shots. First is the McLean Hilton (December), the Colorado Springs Hilton (January), and the Atlanta Renaissance (February).

I need a glass of wine.

Remembering New Year's in London...part 2...

2009-01-31T09:07:00.000-08:00

I certainly didn't want January to exit without finishing up my photos from London. So, here is the final set, with all the post-New Years fun. You can read my glorious descriptions in the entries for Day 2, Day 3, and Day 4.

So, we begin with some silly images from London's New Year's Day parade. I'll be honest...we slept in late...and it was cold...so I didn't catch much of the parade. But I did enjoy the creativity and scale of this parade.

So, the day REALLY began with brunch in the hotel. Followed by a walk through Green Park to Buckingham Palace. Everyone was cheery on this first full day in London.

When you start your day late in wintertime London, and make a few indoor stops along the route, it doesn't take long to jump into dusk...which is what happened on this day. So, we leap forward to a nighttime view of the Wellington Arch at Hyde Park Corner. These are followed by colorful images from a Winter Carnival in Hyde Park.

Dinner that first evening was at Ping Pong...wonderful dim sum in Soho.

Day 3 began with a quick walk through Berkeley Park followed by a visit to the grand St. Paul's Cathedral. We weren't supposed to take photos inside, so our memories are primarily exteriors and views from the top of the dome...and a couple of sneaky shots from the hip. :)

Next, we headed across the modern Millennium Bridge to the Tate Modern. We also downed some fantastic fish and chips.

We finished the day with a long nighttime walk along the Thames, ending at Westminster and its iconic tower housing Big Ben.

Day 4 has a mix of images including the Victoria and Albert museum, the Aspley House, and Wellington Arch. We also passed by a boistous protest. We ended the day with the Billy Elliot musical at a quintessential London theatre.

All those memories, crammed into a few short days. But oh what a way to relax and reflect on them from our comfy United pod :)

Remembering New Year's in London...part 1...

2009-01-25T11:08:00.000-08:00

We landed in London on New Year's Eve. Jeff and I teamed up with Sherie and Chris for a wonderful, memorable trip to end/start the year. All of the shots in this posting are from our first day in London. (If you want to read my original journal entry...check out this link.)

The winter days in London are VERY short, so by the time we made it from the airport to the hotel...the stylish May Fair Hotel...it was already dark. So, Jeff and I took a brisk walk through nearby Green Park to Buckingham Palace before dinner. On the return route to the hotel, we enjoyed the abundance of Christmas lights around every corner.

I discovered that I am heading for the same hairline as FDR and Churchill...hopefully not their bellies!

We celebrated New Years at a nearby restaurant called @venue. Not the best lighting for photos...but the perfect mood for a cozy evening with good friends.

Put a spork in it...

2009-01-20T22:28:00.000-08:00

I took Jeff to a cozy neighborhood eatery in the Mission for his birthday. Spork...named in reference to the restaurant's location...a former Kentucky Fried Chicken. A hearty inside-out burger made a fitting (and filling) meal, but it was the warm apple crisp (served with a spork) that made it a HAPPY BIRTHDAY :)

The science of food...

2009-01-19T12:28:00.000-08:00

I had hoped that this photo from the stylish Moss Room restaurant in the new California Academy of Science would be accompanied by actual photos of the museum itself. On Saturday night, we had a really yummy dinner at the Moss Room...joined by friends Chris, Brad, and Brian...as an early birthday present for Jeff. This intimate room is in the lower level of the museum, with a grand two-story wall covered with living plants.

The museum is only open until 5pm, so Jeff and I planned to return Sunday to visit this striking new building, with its buzz-generating green roof, walk-through aquarium, and high-tech planetarium. The museum opened in October, and lines to get in are notoriously long. Sunday was no exception. One glance at the line of families snaking along the Golden Gate Park Music Concourse was enough to send us on our way.

So, for now, you just get a photo of the mossy restaurant wall :)

In the shadow of Pikes Peak...

2009-01-19T12:08:00.000-08:00

I had a very nice work visit in Colorado Springs this week, with a visitor's office and hotel room with views of snow-capped Pikes Peak.

Back to St. Michaels...

2009-01-19T11:56:00.000-08:00

While I'm busy clearing out some missed photos from the last several weeks, I wanted to share some images from my family weekend in St. Michaels in late December. These are some of more artistic shots from that chilly weekend. As you can see from the icicles in the third photo...the temps were frigid...but inside we had a roaring fire.

Las Vegas...finally...

2009-01-18T18:48:00.000-08:00

Well, I am happy to report that my technical (and psychological) barriers to blog posting have been resolved...or at least minimized...and I can begin to catch back up on some recent trips.

So, first off, is a colorful trip to Las Vegas last week for the Consumer Electronics Show. I had the great fortune to try out the Bellagio, which has always been on my must-try list. With the dip in attendance this year at CES, the rates at some of the premium hotels were quite aggressive...a silver lining I suppose.

One interesting bit of timing was that I arrived in time to catch the final day of the hotel's Christmas display in their flower conservatory. On Tuesday, it was a festive winter wonderland...and the next, the display came down to get ready for the Chinese New Year display. Like clockwork.

As usual, I tried some wonderful food over the few days. Most of the photos came out too dark...Vegas loves dark and moody...but I really liked this colorful sushi plate I had from Samba Sushi in the Palazzo. And yes, it was as yummy as it looks. I also had a morning brioche from this wonderful patisserie in the Bellagio...the brioche below is filled with luscious Nutella...YUM.

I liked this shot of a towering fountain of chocolate in the Bellagio. Its got criss-crossing streams of white and dark chocolate. Amazing to watch.

And finally, what travel post would be complete without my required hotel window photo. with views of the Bellagio pools. Believe it or not, even in January there were a few folks swimming.

Anticipation...

2009-01-14T08:57:00.000-08:00

So, if anyone thinks that having good status with an airline guarantees a good seat...just take a look at this seatmap for my flight from Denver on Friday. Status gets you nothing if there are just no seats. How depressing.

I'm claustrophobic just thinking about this flight.

Barriers...

2009-01-09T15:41:00.000-08:00

I overheard an amusing exchange in a shop in the Las Vegas airport.

"Do you sell cotton balls?"

[Long pause.]
[Quizzical look.]
"Huh?"

"Do you sell cotton balls. You know...uh...cotton balls?"

This was followed by a jumble of disconnected words and hand gestures as the customer tried in vain to define cotton ball...without saying "balls of cotton".

Hysterical.

By the way, the answer...eventually...was no.

Oh yes...the guy sitting behing my at the gate has now called five people telling them that he made it to the gate. Fantastic.

Sunday (London to SFO)...

2009-01-04T21:38:00.000-08:00

One last 'cheerio'. A very early morning to catch a taxi to Heathrow. (Side note: The taxi drivers are sooooo friendly in London. Yesterday, one driver didn't have change for a paper bill I had, so he took whatever change I had...about a pound short on a six pound ride...and said in the nicest way that it was close enough and that really it was his fault. Totally classy. I seem to remember an LA cab driver speeding off with the door still open when I refused to tip him for his poor service. Score one for the Brits.)

Left the May Fair. The four of us rode in sleepy silence for most of the way...with the occasional oooooh or aaaaaaah. A layer of frost made the occasional green sporting fields magical in the low morning light. The city was quiet.

Parted with Sherie as we rounded the airport...she made her way to Virgin's Terminal 3 and we stopped at United's Terminal 1. Spent some quality lounging time in the Star Alliance international lounge before our flight.

First UA 949 to Chicago...yes, Chicago in January...the direct flights to SFO were sold out. Seats 9 A/B. Oh yes...the new lie flat seats complete with big screen entertainment system. Damn entertainment...I didn't sleep for more than 15min. A couple dozen games. The beginnings of several movies. A couple of episodes of The Office. My A.D.D. was in full distraction mode.

Landed in Chicago on schedule. Made our way through the inefficient 'howdy' known as US Customs.

United 907...on time? Shocking. I will give United and O'Hare a new year's reprieve from my loathing :) Seats 9 A/B again...but no lie-flat seats on this ancient widebody. Ok we took off a bit late, but for Chicago...this almost counts as on-time. Wow did this 4-hour flight feel longer than the 9-hour flight from London. Did watch a good movie though...Bottle Shock...and its sunny telling of a historic French-American wine face-off.

Landed. Baggage. Car. Home. Shower. Bed. What a whirl-wind New Years.

(Welcome home Sherie and Chris...what are you on about?)

Saturday (London)...

2009-01-03T18:34:00.000-08:00

The sun was shining brightly on our final day in London....although the high latitude of London means the sun starts low and ends low...resulting in dramatic lighting all through the short day. Jeff and I started the day at the Victoria and Albert Museum with a temporary exhibit that Jeff had been hoping to see...Magnificence of the Tsars. Dozens of outfits from the Russian Imperial Court... mostly ceremonial... all lushiously tailored. Even a couple of pairs of imperial underwear. Afterwards, we wandered through a few of the numerous permanent collections, including a famous collection of plaster replicas of art wonders from around the world...assembled to bring the world to London's residents.

After a mid-morning latte, met up with Chris and Sherie to walk down Bond Street. Destination...Smythson... the renowned stationery store and purveyor to the royal household. A historical stationery display showed letterhead of royalty and famous politicians.

Next stop was the historic Aspley House...home to generations of the Dukes of Wellington. This stately house sits right off of Hyde Park, and holds an impressive art collection acquired by the 1st Duke of Wellingtion, Arthur Wellesley, famous for his defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo. Many items in the home were gifts from grateful monarchs and spoils of war. One strange item of note was a giant Canova statue of a nude Napoleon wearing only a fig leaf in the circular stair hall. Oddly enough, the statue was a present from a grateful Britain to it's illustrious general.

Took a walk along Green Park...quickly past a loud mob protesting the Israeli actions in Gaza...on to a couple of tacky souvenier shops on Piccadilly. A quick snack of sushi and noodles. Jeff and I took a short walk to St. James Palace before heading out for the evening.

Our evening event was the musical Billy Elliot at the charming Victoria Palace Theatre. A classic three-tier theatre with bright red velvet seats and gold-painted wood ornamentation. The musical based on the award-winning book and movie... lively and moving... we all enjoyed it immensely. The teenager who played Billy was wonderful.

Dinner in Soho at Bertorelli. We all savored pizzas, wine, and yummy mojitos for our last dinner in London.
After wishing Jeff's sister Lisa a happy birthday and instantly getting a picture of her traditional banana split cake, we settled down to our last night of slumber in London before our flight home tomorrow.

Friday (London)...

2009-01-03T02:19:00.000-08:00

Took an early morning stroll through nearby Berkley Square Park, bordered by beautiful row houses. Gray skies showed the promise of breaking sometime during the day. Breakfast at Starbucks...a grande latte cuts right through the cold morning.

A short taxi ride to majestic St. Paul's Cathedral. Christopher Wren's masterpiece is bright and (somehwhat) cheery...in contrast with many of the grand Catholic cathedrals we have visited...those tend to reflect a more weighty, somber elegance. Snuck in a couple of forbidden photos of the ornate interior, before descending into the stuffy crypt...home to many famous remains including Florence Nightengale and Admiral Lord Nelson. Climbed winding stairs up into Wren's famous dome. First to the interior Whispering Gallery high above the cathedral floor. Then up tiny confining stairs to the exterior Stone Gallery, with 360 views of London.

Returned to Earth and crossed the Thames on the modern Millennium Bridge...its gleaming metal shone as the clouds began to break for dusk. (FYI sunset is quite early this time of year...today it was at 3:52.)

Directly opposite of St. Paul's was our next destination...the Tate Modern museum. An imposing, brick former power plant...reclaimed to house a world-famous collection of modern art. The building was packed with art-lovers...and we headed to the glass-enclosed top floor to eat lunch. As we waited for our table, the clouds parted and St. Pauls lit up brilliantly against the gray skies behind. An inspiring postcard. Lunch with floor-to-ceiling views of the Thames. Four blackcurrant iced teas. Four big fish and chips. Four huge satisfied smiles.

Bought tickets to see a special Rothko exhibit, covering some of his late works. Crowded rooms for admiring huge canvases...orange on red...black on black...grey on brown. Striking similarity from afar, but mesmerizing variations up close.

Took a long walk back to the hotel along the south bank of the Thames. Lights from buldings and boats twinkled on the gently rippling river.
Walked beneath the towering London Eye, lit up in white and blue. A nearby carrousel twirled as well...but in rich red and gold. Crossed the Thames beneath the tower of Westminster and iconic Big Ben.

Took a winding walk through St. James Park, which lead to Buckingham Palace. The park's serpentine path was bordered with old trees, lit from below. A long, central lake housed ghostly-lit waterfoul floating for the evening. Another glimpse of Buckingham Palace before crossing through Green Park to our hotel.

Dinner at the Club Bar and Restarant in Soho. Drinks after in the pulsing simply named Soho Bar.

Tired feet from a long day. Fell asleep watching a documentary on Harrod's. My favorite factoid, was that writer A.A.Milne bought a bear at Harrod's for his son Christopher Robin which became the inspiration for Winnie the Pooh.

Oh Pooh. That makes me smile.

Thursday (London)...

2009-01-01T15:51:00.000-08:00

Slept in this morning to begin the new year fresh. Awoke to the sounds of a marching band below our window...part of London's loud and colorful New Year's Parade. Brunch in the hotel and then out into the parade crouds. Seemed like all of the marching bands and cheering squads were from the USA.

Retraced our walk from last night...through Green Park to Buckingham Palace. With temperatures in the mid 30s, the iconic palace guards were dressed in warm grey overcoats. Visited the Queen's Gallery bookstore...Sherie picked out postcards of. Prince Harry...grrrrrrrrr. :) Jeff found a cool book on royal hounds. I picked out a cute Christmas ornament for next year's tree.

Took a leisurely walk around the walls of the Palace Mews and along the edges of Hyde Park to Knightsbridge...with noisy streets filled with sale shoppers. Visited both Harvey Nichols and Harrods...both teeming with bargain hunters. We left with bottled water.

After dark, entered Hyde Park and its festive Winter Wonderland canival. Bright flashing lights, pulsing colors, and screaming children. We opted for the towering ferris wheel, glistening with white and blue lights. Our first glance of London's iconic skyline...Big Ben, Westminster, and the London Eye were lit up against the night sky.

Took the Tube back to our hotel to freshen and plan a late dinner (a stunning 4£ ride each). Ate wonderful dim sum in SoHo at Ping Pong. My vanilla lemon vodka drink was totally yummy. All of the food hit the spot...a spicy chicken dumpling was my personal favorite.

Walked back to the hotel through holiday-lit streets and the flashing lights of Piccadilly Circus.

Tuesday/Wednesday (SFO to London)...

2008-12-31T18:52:00.000-08:00

We began our New Year's trip to London where all good trips begin...in the international Red Carpet lounge. Little nibbles and sparkling wine soothed pre-flight stress. Chris handed out Airborne.

Jeff and I snagged seats 12 H/J. A poor movie choice sucked us in...Fred Claus...a weak moment of post-Christmas blues. But wine, dinner, dessert, and Bailey's sent us right through the no-laugh movie and into dreamland.

Awoke as we entered UK airspace. Bright sun glistening off Northern Ireland's lakes mixed with low, misty clouds. Landed at London Heathrow...Terminal 1. On through passport control.

Met Sherie in the terminal, fresh from her flight from LA. An easy 25min hop on the Heathrow Express train to London's Paddington Station. Then a quick cab ride through central London to the hip May Fair hotel...in Mayfair.

While Chris and Sherie napped, Jeff and I took a brisk walk through nearby Green Park to see Buckingham Palace at night. A shimmering Christmas tree front and center. We also spotted the towering London Eye, glowing with purples and blues. Back across Green Park. Popped into the Ritz...the friendly bellman politely reminded us that the area past the lobby was dinner jacket only. Still the tree and lights in the lobby were beautiful.

Strolled through local Mayfair, including a walk down the famous Bond Street shopping area. A final glimpse of Christmas glitter.

Returned to the hotel to shower and dress for New Years Eve on the town.

Reservations at a hip little restaurant called Avenue. On the walk over, Jeff was accosted by a beggar who called him a 'wanker'...even the homeless are funny in England :). Festive decor...orange and white ballons packed the ceiling. A jazz quartet and sultry singer entertained. Colorful cocktails. A yummy pre fixe menu full of creative dishes.

We rang in the New Year with big glasses of champagne, silver streamers, and bottle poppers. Finished up the dinner with scrumptuous desserts...apple toffee sundaes were the favorite. Oh and Chris tried to light Jeff on fire with a flaming streamer.

Walked back to the May Fair with throngs of revelers. Concluded our day with after dinner drinks as the happening May Fair Bar.

Happy New Year! :)

Resolutions...

2008-12-30T13:48:00.000-08:00

Well, I'm kind of ending 2008 in the same fashion in which I spent it...taking pictures without posting them :) I had purposefully left a little time this afternoon to post some photos from Christmas: my wonderful family visit in St. Michaels, our relaxing Christmas morning in San Francisco, amazing Christmas meals, singing and dancing. General jolliness.

Ah but no...I left those photos at home today.

So, I pledge to be a better blogger in the 2009. To bring my A Game to every post. To let life's trivialities flavor my ramblings.

But for now, I wish everyone an early Happy New Year. The next few posts will (hopefully) zip across the Atlantic with a distinctive British flair...as we celebrate the new year in London with our dear friends Chris and Sherie.

Merry Christmas...

2008-12-25T07:47:00.000-08:00

I have a bunch of things to wrap up the season with...but those will have to wait :) Merry Christmas, everyone.

Its 6:17...

2008-12-18T15:17:00.000-08:00

The office is a ghost town.

I just walked past an employee standing over a trashcan in a vacant hallway peeling an apple with a pocket knife.

If this is my last transmission...look for evidence in a pie. Or a nice warm strudel.

Visiting with Dobie #1...

2008-12-16T17:52:00.000-08:00

Virginia Dobie is pictured here sending a long distance shout out to Dobie #2 in California. Oh yes...hi to Ginger and James as well.

Oh and James...I won. :)

Plenty of time for a cow story...

2008-12-16T16:34:00.000-08:00

So, for the past few days, I've been amusing myself (and my friend Chris) with the silly tale of a little girl and her pet cow. I've re-told the story a few times now...and I'm pretty sure its just funny to me...but I must document the moment.

(Side note: you can thank the good folks at United for having time to kill. Have you ever hesitantly checked the in-flight magazine to see what hit-or-miss movie you might have ahead of you, only to find a movie you have never heard of...but thought that at least it wasn't ANOTHER movie that you KNEW you wouldn't like? Well...I did. So, on comes the movie...after a miserable SNL skit...and sure enough its the crap-fest movie I didn't want to see. Sooooooo depressing 20min into a cross-country flight.)

So on with the cow tale.

I think the story is shorter than my movie rant. Sigh.

Anyhow, this weekend, Jeff, Chris, and I were flipping channels and happened upon a reality show on TLC about children and beauty pageants. Trust me...this entire show is a train wreck about these poor kids in horrid outfits with Tammy Faye makeup. Just sad.

Anyhow, the most memorable of this tragic bunch was a little girl from some southern town that I can't recall. When asked why she wanted to win the $1000 prize, this sweet child said...in charming southern drawl...that she wanted to buy a cow.
What good fortune for us viewers. The little girl won. And sure enough, the first words to her mother were to ask if she really could buy the cow.

On a happy note...I am sure that someday, this girl will be able to sue her mom for her therapy bills when she learns that her cute idiosyncrasies filmed for the world to blog about.

Hey...I grew up with chickens...but I didn't talk about it on camera while smeared with candy-red lipstick. Now THAT would require therapy :)

(Oh. The movie is still running. And it still sucks!)

Blogworthy...

2008-12-11T06:51:00.000-08:00

I spent a quick, festive evening in Seattle this week. Following a yummy team dinner at cozy Brasa in Belltown, some of my Seattle-based team set out on a party bus--complete with oversized, blue-neon speakers--in search of holiday decorations. The singing and dancing was notable, but one particular song stood out in my mind...the bouncy Texas Chainsaw Christmas tune...from the zany minds that brought us Grandma Got Run Over By a Reindeer. It was a bit surreal to be driving through a quiet neighborhood festooned with lights, while we learned about Chucky's first chainsaw.

Oh yes...here ya go, hotel window fans :)

Hey 'big dog'...

2008-12-09T18:19:00.000-08:00

A friendly shout-out to the oblivious ass two rows up who reviewed his 'big day' in great detail on his bluetooth headset for the entire plane to hear...I don't know who your buddy 'big dog' is, but I'm sure he doesn't care how you are wintering your boats any more than I do!

A photoshow...in THIS economy...

2008-12-07T17:51:00.000-08:00

My Fort Mason Photography friends and I held our annual holiday photo show this weekend. (Say 'hi' to Charlotte, Susan, and Beverly above.) The 10 of us had a full room on Friday night for our opening, but some sloooooooow patches on Saturday and Sunday afternoons. We had several sales...but many more lookers this year. That didn't stop us from setting up a fine looking show, and sipping some festive wine together :)

Photos from Italy...day 18...

2008-12-07T17:36:00.000-08:00

All good things must come to an end...ending here on the 3rd of June. On this cold, gray day in December, its nice to have some sunny images Italy. This LONG series of photos has been a real treat to stretch out over six months of editing. Thanks for coming along for the ride :)

A too-early wake up call got the ball rolling this morning. Shower. Breakfast. Time to fly home. The military and its marching band was reassembling on the closed road in front of the hotel...today is a national holiday...La Festa della Repubblica. Bonus...an easy 30min drive to the airport...FCO...Leonardo da Vinci International.

Quick check in through Lufthansa. Confirmed our upgrade from Frankfurt to SFO...both of us.

Time to kill.

Left Rome in the light rain. A couple of hour later, descended through scattered puffy clouds into Frankfurt...by one measure a very predictable, efficient airport...marred by inexplicable irritants.

Boarded our on-time 747 bound for San Francisco. Champagne for Jeff and red wine for me. I do love business class.

Followed a familiar route over Iceland and Greenland and down over Canada. The US leg involved wonderful views of Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Shasta. The San Francisco Bay was beautifully lit...a welcome sight.

Photos from Italy...day 17...

2008-12-07T17:14:00.000-08:00

OK...in the home stretch with Italy photos!! Here is our last full day in Rome, with some fun long walks past some famous (and overcrowded) sites. I'm going to miss these :) Enjoy.

Awoke to another sunny day in Rome...forecast to be the warmest of our visit. Another filling breakfast...yesterday's held us over till dinner...Italy has enough of our money. Filled our water bottle...Rome has countless, free-flowing water fountains all over the city for cool, fresh refills.

Headed a short distance to the three-building Musei Capitolini high atop Capitol Hill...the seat of ancient Roman temples and even pre-historic settlements back to the Iron Age. The museum has an amazing sculpture collection. We finished our visit in the open-air section of the museum that overlooks the Forum. This section is the Roman temple of Jupiter.

Another long afternoon walk, starting with a daytime stop at the Pantheon...free, easy entrance into this impressive architectural wonder...originally a Roman temple...now a church. Next stop, the controversial modern building on the Tiber constructed to showcase (and protect) the ancient Altar of Peace...a huge, gleaming-white marble "box"...carved with intricate figures. We viewed the Altar from the outside for free :)

Across the street, the simple church of San Rocco...in Rome, even the small churches are gems. Hit a couple of tourist meccas on our walk back to the hotel: viewed the famed Spanish Steps from afar...across the heads of a gazillion people. Popped by the Trevi Fountain...a brilliant fountain, buried under the weight of popularity.

Took a long winding path back to the hotel...past the gleaming monument to Italian unification; past the Forum; past the Colloseum; past the Circus Maximus. Dinner one last time in the Travestere...pizzas and wine from a recommended spot. The Travestere was full of Italians...in town for the three-day holiday weekend. Had one last wonderful gelato. Saw our angry mime again.

Fell asleep tired, but knowing we had wrung every last drop from the Eternal City.

Photos from Italy...day 16...

2008-12-07T16:41:00.000-08:00

Wow...this was one of the amazing days criss-crossing Rome. So many color people...literally in some cases. FUN! Just a couple more days to go, and then all done with Italy. :( (Here is the original journal entry...from the FIRST DAY OF JUNE!!) The late night shots of the Pantheon are REALLY great.

Jeff tells me that at 4am, a full military marching band passed by our hotel...I heard nothing. Had our first hearty breakfast of the trip...including fluffy scrambled eggs, bacon (the way I like it) and due cappuccini.

Started the day with the second half of our Palantino ticket with a visit to the always-impressive Colosseo. New sections were open on this visit, providing some up-close vantage points to peer into the ancient flooring and imagine what it was like in the bowels of such a structure.

Began a long afternoon walk in the direction of Castel Sant' Angelo. Ducked into two cool churches along the way...cool in decor, but more importantly, cool in temperature. Maria en Campitelli was a dark, quiet church with few visitors, while Agnese di Agone was bright and opulent and teeming with admirers. Outside, on the Piazza Navone, Jeff spotted a landmark from a book he is reading: Dan Brown's Angels and Demons. (Thanks to Matt for the recommendation...Jeff is pointing out "clues" all over Rome.)

Our primary destination for the afternoon--the Castel Sant' Angelo--is another book landmark. The Medeival Castel was construted on top of an ancient Roman mausoleum constructed by Emperor Hadrian. Later, the Castel housed Papal apartments, and a secret passage to the Vatican ('Il Paseo') for the Pope to escape invading armies. For modern visitors, the result is a 3-D inter-mixing of eras. From the parapets, got a colorful glimpse of the myriad of street vendors below: sandals, handbags, glasses, scarves, grass reeds twisted into origami grasshoppers...tripods?

A short walk to the Vatican, where visitors lined up for evening service in Piazza San Pietro. Watched the curious scene for an hour...expecting something to happen...I'm sure it did eventually...probably even included the Pope. Nevertheless, hunger overcame us and we walked along the Tiber back to the Travestere for dinner. A very popular spot...Carlos Menta...with good food at very reasonable prices. They are the one place that seemed to have embraced the American economic model that with high volume, you can have low prices.

Returned to the hotel for drinks (mojitos) and dessert (a creative, rich tiramisu) at the hotel rooftop bar, Circus.

Nestled into a very cozy bed.

A quick hotel photo...

2008-12-04T21:48:00.000-08:00

This week's hotel window looked out into the glass-clad business parks of La Jolla. Next up...Seattle.

Jumping into Christmas...

2008-12-04T20:54:00.000-08:00

Over the long Thanksgiving weekend, Jeff and I decorated our Christmas Tree, complete with several new ornaments from the year...new treasures adding to the explosion of color on our tree. A ceramic from Orvieto. A paper mache mask from Venice. Alabaster from Voltera. Terra cotta from Impruneta. A colorful surfboard from Hawaii. A White House ornament.

But the prize for most interesting ornament of the year...a colorful red elephant...made from elephant poop. THAT is a first. Thanks Karen :)

Photos from Italy...day 15...

2008-11-26T22:08:00.001-08:00

On a sunny Saturday on the last day of May, we headed into Rome...our final stop in Italy.

The overnight rain brought with it a pleasant chill. Perfect sleeping weather. Breakfast was out on the terrace...although an approaching storm was preceeded by strong breezes that tugged on linens.

Dropped ye olde Kia off at Avis. Crossed to the train station to wait for the 11:58 train to Roma Termini...delayed by 25min...and a bit confusing without seat reservations. But no worse for the wear, we made our way (finally) to Rome by around 1:30pm.

Taxi from the train station. Our first real problem. Even though we got an officially marked taxi from an official taxi stand, the driver still gorged us. Jeff berated him to reduce the price and we got a small reduction, but the 1 mile ride still cost us 30 euro...the hotel told us it should be 10-15 euro. Live and learn, I guess...still, it gives me that feeling in the pit of your stomach that you've been taken.

The Hotel 47 staff was helpful and the room spacious and comfortable. We're located near the end of the Roman Circus Maximus behind the Palantine Hill...which we set out to see after dropping off our bags.

In Roman times, the Palatino Hill was THE place to build your palace. Today, its a fun maze of ruins...arched brick walls, marble columns, scattered masaic floors, hidden passages. Our first and favorite sight was the newly-restored rooms in the Casa Augusto. These four tiny rooms were painted almost 2000 years ago, and yet the pigments have been amazingly preserved. Augustus must have loved brilliant red.

Finished the Palatino Hill and exited to the Forum below. The afternoon light made this open-air playground of Roman artifacts come alive. Exited the Forum at Capitolino Hill and the piazza designed by Michelangelo. Returned to the hotel to shower and relax before dinner.

Crossed the Tiber River into the Travastevere area...this is the heart of Medieval Rome...with narrow, winding, and slightly seedy streets. Found an outdoor restaurant on the Piazza Santa Maria en Travatereve. Ate a hearty meal while watching the colorful activities of the piazza...a comical mime, roving bands of salesmen hawking cheap plastic toys that light up, a gang of children mocking the roving salemen, a spray paint artist, and a rousing troubador.

Took a long walk into the wee hours. Historic Rome at night is just fun. The Jewish Getto and the Area Sacra...with its tribe of wild cats. The Campo di Fior with drunken/festive revelry. The race-track-shaped Piazza Navona. The simply breathtaking Pantheon. And every few blocks...a random patch of ruins.

Tired feet but an overwhelming sense of history.

Photos from Italy...day 14...

2008-11-26T21:30:00.000-08:00

Today we find ourselves reminiscing with photos from Orvieto in Umbria...a rainy day near the end of our trip to Italy. Stay tuned...photos from Rome are coming up soon. Promise. :)

Awoke to the sound of birds...happy birds. Birds feeding or nesting or courting or whatever birds do as the sun rises. Certainly our most peaceful wake up call. The scents of honeysuckle, lavendar, and roses mingled in the air.

A light, fruity breakfast in the hotel Enotecca--their event wine bar. Local preserves. Fresh strawberries and cherries. Three flakey fruit tarts. Yogurt. And cappuccini...oh yes!

Swung into Orvieto to buy tomorrow's train tickets to Rome and to locate the Avis drop-off. Success.

A short but scenic drive to postcard perfect Civita di Bagnoregio...but first a stop in sleepy Lubriano who's claim to fame seems to be the perfect overlook of Civita. It began to rain steadily. Drove to the larger town of Bagnoregio with its own to-see's, but for us just the entry point to Civita. Unfortunately, the rain picked up, and we were without rain gear. So, another picturesque vista of Civita...perched high atop its mound of tufa...the town's single connection to the world a narrow foot bridge.

Returned to the Locanda for rain garb for the afternoon.

Into central Orvieto for a couple of underground sights. First stop, a recently re-discovered network of Etruscan wells, tunnels, garbage pits carved into the tufa dating 25 centuries ago. These ancient sites were intermixed with more recent modifications by the Romans and again in the Middle Ages.

Grabbed lunch at a creative (looking) place we had passed yesterday. Unfortunately, only the decor made us chuckle...the food was mediocre and the service was horriffic. Maybe the pan-flute CD playing covers of Guns and Roses and Celine Dion should have warned us. Rain blew through and left behind high humidity...ugh.

Walked across Orvieto for our next stop...the engineering marvel that is Pozzo di San Patrizio...aka, St. Patrick's Well. Built at the orders of a Pope to ensure a sustainable water source in case of the town being beseiged, this 16th-century well is notable for its double-helix stairwells, decending 496 steps to the bottom with a half-turn separated route back up. Nice and cool below. Shopped for some of Orvieto's famous ceramics. A breeze picked up and lowered the humidity.

With the rain gone, decided to take the short drive back to tempting Civita. Much better vistas :) This time, we were able to walk the long foot bridge into Civita, up the steep approach, and through the old Etruscan tufa gate. The town is tiny and desolate...but the Medieval buildings are worth the trip.

It was getting late as we left Civita so we rushed back to Orvieto to try and grab dinner. Long story short...we left thwarted...Italy does not make eating lite and quickly simple. So we returned to the hotel to sample a local wine in our room minibar...only to find that there was no cork screw. Want a beer or Coke? No bottle opener. And no way to contact the innkeeper, because we are the only two people in the hotel. It wasn't meant to be.

We can see lightening on the horizon from our bed. There is a cool breeze and the humidity is low.

2 weeks, 3 cities, 4 hotels...

2008-11-23T14:28:00.000-08:00

I've had a busy couple of weeks, beginning with a few days in northern San Diego County for a meeting at the Four Seasons Aviara. This is a serene property overlooking a protected estuary. Indoor and outdoor spaces blend seemlessly. The Four Seasons is the master of understated elegance and comfort.

In stark contrast, I spent a few cold nights this past week in Seattle and then Philadelphia...both beautiful cities...but a bit on the overcast side during this trip. In Seattle, I stayed at the plain-and-simple Hilton.

In Philly, my coworkers and I got to our hotel--the downtown Westin--around 1am to find that our "confirmed" rooms had been given away. So, for the night, the hotel arranged a room at the nearby Four Season...what a stroke of luck. A beautiful room overlooking the historic Logan Square and its Swann Fountain. Still...it was no Aviara!

I returned to the Westin for my second and final evening. The room was fine, but I do have a bit of an axe to grind. When my displaced coworkers, Sarah and Tina, arrived at THEIR new rooms...they walked into a suite with an apology note AND a bottle of wine. What did I get? Zilch. Oh yeah, I could have complained...but I was too tired to bother. Shame on you, Westin!

My trip to Philly did have a bit of light, unexpected snow. Mostly heavy flurries...but pretty nonetheless. (Hello to Sarah, below, who requested a blog cameo.)

And of course, you can't have your yin without a good dose of yang. My pretty snow caused a two-hour de-icing delay...which caused me to miss my connection in Denver...and planted me in a middle seat between two hefty guys. At least I am home :)

Into the wild...

2008-11-18T13:41:00.000-08:00

I spent the better part of last week in sunny southern California with a group of co-workers at the lovely Aviara resort. The meeting was a rousing success with many highlights, but the most fun part was our "photo safari" outing at the San Diego Wild Animal Park. What a fantastic way to blow off some steam and bond as a group. The tour took us out into the "Africa" portion of the park, with the opportunity to get up close and personal with endangered rhinos and friendly giraffes. A regular stop on the tour is the feeding of giraffes, who certainly knew we came bearing gifts of greenery. It was certainly MY first time being licked by a giraffe and its 14-inch tounge. (My thanks to my friend Karen for snapping the photo of me.)

Pitchforks and torches...

2008-11-16T09:12:00.000-08:00

Before I move off the topic of politics and back to serene photos of Italy, I wanted to share some colorful images from a couple of spirited protests in San Francisco. First are some shots from a twilight march down Market Street the Friday after Election Day. The euphoria of Obama's win had faded a bit, and the reality of Proposition 8's passage had set in. Mobs of people...both gay and straight...came out in a show of unity for the undeniable civil right to love whomever you wish.

A week later, on Saturday, a more organized rally took place in cities across the country. These shots are from the grounds of San Francisco's majestic City Hall, but they are mirrored in shots I've seen from news sites in dozens of cities. It is heartening to know that we're standing together with our friends, wherever they may be.

I wanted to finish off with a light-hearted photo from Saturday's protest. I knew there was a reason I always loved Bert and Ernie growing up :)

Life in a bubble...

2008-11-05T07:50:00.000-08:00

OK. Please excuse this post...I just have to get this off my chest.

First off...I am so thrilled about the election last night. Obama gave an inspiring acceptance speech of hope and inclusiveness and the future. I was truly moved and so proud to be an American. I am certain that I will not agree with 100% of Obama's decisions, but I am excited to finally see a leader try to lift up the country.

Of course, the evening was not without disappointment. By a slim margin, Californians saw fit to single out same-sex couples and codify discrimination into our state constitution. (It is shocking to me that in California, you can amend the state constitution with a simple majority vote...that would seem to open up our constitution to the whims of populism.)

I know a young gay couple who live in LA. They rushed to get married last week...swept up in the same euphoria of hope that propelled to Obama to wide victory in California. Today, they woke up with their newly-inked marriage in limbo, because...well...what would we tell our children about THAT kind of relationship.

Yesterday, more than SIXTY PERCENT of Californians voted to protect the rights of farm animals. Only 48% thought the rights of same sex couples were worth defending.

Nevertheless, I will not let this setback tarnish my sheer joy of Obama's election. He demonstrates first hand that civil rights are worth fighting for. The gay community will get its day as well, as long as we keep treasuring our steps forward and learning from the inevitable steps back.

The world looks a little different under a bright blue San Francisco sky. We live in a bubble of hope.